Whirlpool Duet Dryer Control Board F01 Relay Repair

WhirlpoolWhirlpool DryerModerate⏱ 1 - 2 hours

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Use this guide to repair a Whirlpool Duet dryer control board that shows an F01 or F1 error, will not start, or behaves intermittently because of a failing power relay. The relay, also called the control-board relay, main relay, or power relay, closes when you press Start and supplies power through the control board. This guide was written around a Whirlpool Duet 9400 model, so similar Whirlpool, Kenmore, and Maytag front-load dryers may use the same relay with small layout differences. Replacing the relay fixes the failed part instead of only adding solder or jumper wires to a burned trace, which may work only briefly.

🧰 Tools

Safety Glasses
6-in-1 Screwdriver
Soldering Iron
1/4" Socket
1/4" Drive Ratchet
Desoldering Pump
Desoldering Braid
Solder Leaded 63 37 Rosin Core

⚙️ Parts

G8P-1A4P relay

ШагиSteps

Confirm the error and disconnect power

Confirm that the dryer shows F01 or F1, will not start, or only stops when you open the door.
These symptoms often point to a failed control-board relay on Whirlpool Duet-style dryers.
Unplug the dryer before removing any panel.
Pull the dryer away from the wall if you need more room to reach the plug.
Never work inside the dryer while it is plugged in, because the relay circuit carries line voltage.

Remove the top panel

Remove the two rear upper-corner screws with a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet.
The screws point toward the back of the dryer, so check the ratchet direction before loosening them.
Set the screws aside somewhere safe.
Slide the top panel toward the rear and lift it off.

Disconnect the top connectors

Take a photo of the control-board connectors before unplugging anything.
Pull the two plain plugs straight out of their sockets.
Press the two tabs on the long rectangular white connector and pull it up.
Press the single side tab on the nearby connector and pull it up.
Grip the plastic connector bodies, not the wires.

Release the side connectors

Locate the small side connectors that slide straight into the control board.
Use a screwdriver to press the locking tab down on a side connector.
Pry the connector body slightly away from the board and pull it straight out.
Do not pull on the wires, or you may tear them out of the connector.
Repeat this release process for the remaining side connectors.

Remove the control board assembly

Loosen the screw holding the control-board housing with a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet.
When the screw turns freely, finish removing it by hand so it does not drop inside the dryer.
Work the plastic housing free and pull the control-board assembly straight out.
Move the assembly to a workbench for the soldering repair.

Open the control board housing

Place the control-board assembly on a heat-resistant soldering mat.
Release the two snaps on the housing cover and lift the cover off.
Press the plastic snaps inside the housing away from the board.
Lift one corner of the board and slide it out of the housing.
Handle the board by its edges so you do not bend components or contaminate the solder joints.

Identify the faulty relay

Find the burned solder area on the back of the control board.
Flip the board over and locate the relay directly opposite that burn mark.
Match the new relay to the old relay’s part number and pin pattern before desoldering.
On the example Whirlpool Duet 9400 board, the relay is marked G8P-1A4P.
The four relay pins correspond to four solder joints on the back of the board.

Desolder the relay pins

Put on safety glasses and work in a well-ventilated area.
Plug in a 15 to 20 watt soldering iron and let it heat up.
Place the soldering-iron tip on one relay solder joint until the solder melts.
Squeeze the solder-sucker bulb, place it against the molten solder, and release it to pull the solder away.
If you prefer, use solder wick by heating the copper braid on the joint until it absorbs the solder.
Remove solder from all four relay joints.
The board may have a clear non-conductive coating that softens as the joint heats.

Remove the old relay

Check that the solder is fully removed from all four relay pins.
Gently push the relay away from the board while heating any pin that still feels stuck.
Do not force the relay through the board.
Forcing a stuck pin can tear the copper trace off the board and create an open circuit.
Remove the relay only when the pins slide free.

Check the failed relay

Inspect the removed relay for melted plastic or a burned pin area.
Burned internal relay contacts create resistance, heat, and the melted solder spot on the board.
Do not try to repair the old relay contacts.
Adding solder or a jumper wire only treats the burned trace, not the worn contacts inside the relay.

Seat the new relay

Insert the new G8P-1A4P relay into the same holes as the old relay.
Match the orientation and pin pattern before pushing it into place.
Confirm that all four pins protrude through the back of the board.
Support the relay so it stays seated while you solder the first pins.
Solder one corner pin and then the opposite corner pin to keep the relay aligned.

Solder the new relay

Tin the soldering-iron tip with a small amount of 60-40 rosin-core solder.
Place the iron against the relay pin and copper pad.
Heat the pin for several seconds so the solder bonds to the pin, not only the pad.
Feed the solder to the hot pin until it flows onto both the pin and the pad.
If the solder does not stick to the pin, keep heating it so you do not leave a cold joint.
Solder the remaining relay pins the same way.
Unplug the soldering iron and leave it somewhere safe to cool.

Reassemble and clean the board housing

Slide the control board back into the plastic housing until the snaps lock it in place.
Snap the housing cover back onto the assembly.
Vacuum dust from the control-board area if it is dirty.
Keep the vacuum nozzle from scraping the board or pulling on wires.
Make sure the housing and dryer cavity are clean before reinstalling the board.

Reinstall the control board housing

Set the control-board housing into the slots inside the dryer.
Slide the housing rearward until it seats in place.
If the screw falls out of the socket, press a small piece of tape inside the socket to hold it.
Guide the screw into the hole with a finger and start threading it by hand.
Tighten the screw with the 1/4 inch socket and ratchet until it just feels snug.
Avoid dropping the screw into the dryer, because it may require extra disassembly to retrieve.

Reconnect the control board

Reconnect the plugs in reverse order using the photo you took earlier.
Support the panel with one hand from behind if it flexes while you press a connector in.
Push the top connectors straight into their sockets until fully seated.
Slide each side connector into its slot until the locking tab pops up and holds it.
Check every connector and make sure each one is secure.

Test the repair

Keep hands, tools, and loose clothing away from the open dryer cabinet.
Plug the dryer in only after all connectors are secure.
Select a cycle and press Start.
Stop the dryer and start another cycle to confirm it works more than once.
If the dryer starts consistently and the F01 or F1 code is gone, the relay repair worked.
Unplug the dryer again before reinstalling the top panel if the cabinet is still open.

Reinstall the top panel

Identify the front metal tabs on the dryer and the matching tabs on the underside of the top panel.
Set the top panel just in front of the front tabs and square it with the back of the dryer.
Push down on the front edge and slide the panel into place under the tabs.
Lift gently at both front corners to confirm that the tabs are locked under the panel.
Reinstall the two rear upper-corner screws with a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet.
Tighten both screws securely.

Run the dryer through a normal cycle and watch for the F01 or F1 error. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

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