How to Fix the Maytag Dryer F01 Error Code

MaytagMaytag dryerModerate⏱ 1 - 2 hours

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Use this guide to repair a Maytag dryer control board that shows an F01 or F1 error by replacing the failed main relay. A bad relay can cause a no-start dryer, intermittent starting, or a dryer that only shuts off when the door opens. Replacing the relay is a durable board-level repair, not a temporary solder patch over a burned spot. This guide was written on a Whirlpool Duet 9400-style dryer, so similar Whirlpool-built Maytag, Kenmore, and Whirlpool dryers may differ slightly.

🧰 Tools

Safety Glasses
Soldering Iron
Desoldering Pump
iFixit Desoldering Wick
Solder Leaded 63 37 Rosin Core
1/4" Socket
1/4" Drive Ratchet
Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver

⚙️ Parts

G8P-1A4P relay

ШагиSteps

Diagnose the F01 fault

Turn the dryer on and press Start to confirm the F01 or F1 code appears and the dryer will not run.
On this Whirlpool-built Duet-style dryer, F01 or F1 points to an electronic control-board failure.
A dryer that only shuts off when the door opens can also have a failing main relay on the control board.
Do not rely on adding solder or jumper wires to the burned spot, because that only masks the relay failure.

Disconnect power and remove the top panel

Unplug the dryer before removing any panels.
Electric dryers use dangerous voltage, so don't work on the dryer while it's plugged in.
Pull the dryer away from the wall if you need room to reach the plug and rear screws.
Use a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet to remove the two screws in the upper rear corners of the top panel.
Keep the screws in a container so they don't get lost.
Push the top panel toward the rear of the dryer and lift it off.

Disconnect the top control board plugs

Locate the control board in the plastic housing under the top panel.
Take a photo of the wire connectors before unplugging anything.
Pull the two simple plugs straight out of the board.
Squeeze the tabs on the long rectangular white connector and pull it up.
Press the side tab on the nearby connector and pull it up.

Release the side wire clips

Use a small screwdriver to pry each side clip slightly away from the board.
Press the locking tab down to unlock each clip.
Pull the connector straight away from the board while holding the connector body.
Don't pull on the wires, because they can tear out of the connector.
Repeat until all side connectors are free.

Remove the control board housing

Use a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet to remove the single screw holding the control-board housing.
Turn the screw out with your fingers once it loosens so it doesn't fall into the dryer.
Set the screw aside in a safe place.
Rock the plastic housing gently and pull it straight out of the dryer.
Carry the housing to a clean workbench.

Open the control board housing

Set the housing on a heat-resistant silicone work mat.
Pop the two cover snaps on one side and lift the cover off.
Release the retaining tabs inside the housing while lifting one corner of the board.
Press the white tabs aside and slide the control board out of the housing.
Handle the board by its edges to avoid stressing small components.

Identify the relay and solder joints

Find the burned or overheated solder area on the back of the board.
Flip the board over and identify the relay directly opposite the burn mark.
Match the replacement relay pin pattern to the original relay.
This repair used a G8P-1A4P relay.
Mark the four solder joints that belong to the relay pins.
These four pins are the joints you need to desolder.
The burn mark is a symptom of hot, worn relay contacts, not the root cause.

Set up safe soldering

Put on safety glasses and work in a well-ventilated area.
Plug in a 15 to 25 watt soldering iron and let it heat up.
Keep the hot iron on the silicone mat whenever it isn't in your hand.
Use a solder sucker bulb for desoldering, or use solder wick if that is what you have.
Keep the loose control board away from water and flammable clutter.

Remove solder from the relay pins

Heat one marked solder joint until the solder melts.
Hold the iron on the joint just long enough for the solder to liquefy fully.
Squeeze the air out of the solder sucker bulb before placing it against the melted solder.
Release the bulb to pull solder away from the joint.
Break through the clear non-conductive coating on untouched joints before trying to pull solder away.
Repeat for all four relay pins, including the two smaller pins.
Be patient, because clean heat and fully melted solder matter more than speed.

Free the old relay

Test whether the relay can move once all four joints are desoldered.
Don't force the relay if it still feels tight.
Forcing stuck pins can lift copper traces from the board and create an open circuit.
Push the relay gently away from the board while reheating any stuck joint.
Use the solder sucker again until the stuck pin hole is clear of solder.
Pull the relay out only after the pins slide through without resistance.

Inspect the failed relay

Inspect the bottom of the old relay for melted plastic or an overheated terminal.
A melted terminal confirms the heat came from inside the relay.
Worn internal contacts increase resistance and create more heat every time the dryer starts.
Adding solder to the burned joint won't repair the worn contacts inside the relay.
Replace the relay instead of trying to cut open and reuse the old one.

Install the new relay

Insert the new G8P-1A4P relay through the same holes as the old relay.
Confirm the relay sits flat against the board and all four pins stick through the back.
Support the relay so it doesn't fall out when you turn the board over.
Solder one corner pin to tack the relay in place.
Solder the opposite corner pin next so the relay stays square.

Solder the relay pins

Tin the soldering-iron tip with a small amount of rosin-core solder.
Place the iron tip against the side of a relay pin and the copper trace.
Let the pin and trace heat for several seconds, especially on the larger pins.
Touch the solder to the heated pin, not directly to the board.
Let the solder flow onto both the pin and the trace.
Repeat for all relay pins.
A dull or poorly flowed joint can be a cold joint and create high resistance.
Unplug the soldering iron as soon as the soldering is complete.

Reassemble the board housing

Let the solder joints cool before touching the board.
Snap the control board back into the plastic housing.
Reinstall the housing cover and confirm the snaps engage.
Vacuum dust and lint from the control-board area inside the dryer.
Dryer lint is flammable, so remove every visible buildup before closing the cabinet.

Secure the control board housing

Place the plastic housing into the cabinet slots.
Slide the housing rearward until it seats.
Use small pieces of tape inside the 1/4 inch socket if the screw won't stay in place.
Guide the screw into the hole with a finger beside the opening.
Thread the screw by hand before using the ratchet.
Tighten the screw only until it feels snug.
Don't drop the screw into the dryer, because it can be hard to retrieve.
If the screw does fall inside, you may need to remove the lower front panel to find it.

Reconnect the control board plugs

Reconnect the control-board plugs in reverse order of removal.
Support the control panel with one hand while pushing plugs in if needed.
Push the long white connector down until the locking tabs seat.
Push the connector with the side tab down until its latch engages.
Insert each small side connector into its slot from the side.
Push each side connector until it clicks and the locking tab pops up.
Double-check every connector to make sure it is fully seated and secure.

Test the repair

Plug the dryer back in only after all control-board connectors are secure.
Select Normal and press Start.
Stop the dryer and start it again to confirm the relay works more than once.
Test another cycle, such as Super Delicate, if available.
If the dryer still won't run, unplug it and inspect the connector seating, relay orientation, and solder joints.
Look for cold joints or solder bridges between adjacent pads.
Unplug the dryer again before reinstalling the top panel.

Install the top panel

Set the top panel in front of the front locking tabs.
Use the two rear screw holes to identify the back edge of the panel.
Square the panel at the rear, lower the front over the tabs, and push down.
Pull the panel into place so the front tabs slide under the cabinet tabs.
Tug both front corners to confirm the top panel doesn't lift.
Use a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet to reinstall the two rear screws.
Tighten both screws until snug.

This repair replaces the failed relay that causes the overheated board connection, so it is more durable than reflowing solder or adding a jumper wire. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Fix the Maytag Dryer F01 Error Code» — автор eCuration, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →