Kenmore Dryer Control Board F01 Error Code Repair

KenmoreKenmore DryerModerate⏱ 1 - 2 hours

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Use this guide to repair a Kenmore dryer control board that shows an F01 or F1 error by replacing the failed relay. The relay carries power through the control board, and its internal contacts can burn, create resistance, overheat, and melt solder on the board. Replacing the relay is a more durable repair than adding solder or jumper wires to the burned spot, which only treats the symptom. This guide was written around a Whirlpool Duet 9400-style control board, so similar Kenmore, Whirlpool, and Maytag dryers may have small layout differences.

🧰 Tools

Safety Glasses
1/4 inch socket
3/8" Ratchet (Socket Wrench)
6-in-1 Screwdriver
Soldering Iron
Solder sucker bulb
Solder Leaded 63 37 Rosin Core
Solder Wick Braid

⚙️ Parts

G8P-1A4P relay

ШагиSteps

Disconnect power

Turn off the dryer and unplug the power cord from the wall outlet.
Pull the dryer away from the wall only as far as needed to reach the plug.
A dryer uses 240 V, so do not work inside it while it is plugged in.
If this is a gas dryer and you need to move it farther, close the gas shutoff valve first.

Remove the top panel

Remove the two screws in the upper rear corners with a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet.
These screws thread in from the back toward the front, so check the ratchet direction before loosening them.
Set the screws aside where they will not get lost.
Slide the top panel toward the rear and lift it off.

Disconnect the top control board connectors

Locate the control board in its plastic housing under the top panel.
Take a clear photo of every connector before unplugging anything.
Pull the two plain plugs straight out of their sockets.
Press the two tabs on the long white rectangular connector and pull it up.
Press the single side tab on the nearby connector and pull it up.
Pull on the plastic connector bodies, not the wires.

Disconnect the side wire clips

Locate the small side-mounted wire clips that slide straight into the control board.
Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry a clip slightly away from the board.
Press the locking tab down and pull the clip straight away from the board.
Use the corner of the screwdriver in the clip opening if you need extra grip.
Repeat this process for the remaining side clips.
Do not pull on the wires, or you can damage the connector or harness.

Remove the control board housing

Loosen the screw holding the control-board housing with a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet.
When the screw turns freely, finish removing it by hand so it does not fall into the dryer.
Set the screw aside with the top-panel screws.
Work the plastic housing free and pull it straight out of the dryer.

Open the control board housing

Place the control-board housing on a silicone mat or another heat-safe work surface.
Release the two snaps on the housing cover and lift the cover off.
Lift one corner of the board slightly while pressing the inner plastic snaps away.
Press the small white retaining tabs aside and slide the board out of the housing.
Handle the board by its edges and avoid touching the solder joints more than necessary.

Identify the relay pins

Find the burned or overheated solder mark on the back of the control board.
Locate the relay on the opposite side of the board directly behind that burn mark.
Confirm that the replacement relay matches the original relay and its pin pattern.
The relay shown here is part number G8P-1A4P, but verify the markings on your board before ordering.
Mark the four solder joints that match the relay pins so you desolder the correct points.
Do not use added solder or jumper wires as the repair, because the failure is inside the relay.

Prepare to desolder

Plug in a 15 to 20 watt soldering iron and let it heat up.
Keep the hot iron on the silicone mat or in a safe stand whenever you are not holding it.
Work in a ventilated area and avoid breathing solder fumes.
Put on safety glasses before heating or removing solder.
Squeeze the air out of the solder-sucker bulb before placing it at a molten joint.

Desolder the old relay

Place the soldering-iron tip on one marked relay joint and hold it there until the solder melts.
Press the solder sucker against the molten solder and release it to pull the solder away.
Repeat the same process on the other three marked relay joints.
Untouched joints may have a thin non-conductive coating, so keep steady heat on the joint until the solder melts.
Use solder wick instead of the solder sucker if you prefer that method.
Remove as much solder as possible from all four relay pins so the relay comes out cleanly.

Remove the old relay

Check whether the relay moves after you remove the solder.
Do not force the relay if it still feels stuck.
Forcing the pins through the board can lift the copper traces and create an open circuit.
Reheat any stubborn pin and remove more solder from that joint.
Press the relay away from the board while heating a stubborn joint if needed.
Lift the relay out only when all four pins release freely.

Avoid shortcut repairs

Inspect the removed relay for heat damage such as melted plastic near the pins.
Replace the relay instead of adding solder to the burned board spot.
Extra solder may make the dryer run briefly, but it does not repair the worn contacts inside the relay.
Do not cut open, clean, or rebuild the old relay as the repair.
A new relay is the lasting fix because the overheated contact is inside the sealed relay body.

Seat the new relay

Insert the new relay pins into the same four holes in the board.
Make sure all pins pass fully through the board and the relay sits flat against it.
Hold the relay in place so it does not fall out while you begin soldering.
Use 60-40 rosin-core solder for the new joints.
Tack one corner pin first, then the opposite corner pin, to keep the relay aligned.

Solder the new relay pins

Tin the soldering-iron tip with a small amount of solder so it transfers heat well.
Place the iron against a relay pin and the surrounding copper trace.
Let the pin and trace heat for a few seconds before adding solder.
Touch the solder to the hot relay pin, not directly to the board.
Wait for the solder to flow onto the pin and trace to form a solid, shiny joint.
Repeat this process for all four relay pins.
A cold joint creates high resistance and can make the repair fail.
Unplug the soldering iron when you are done so it cannot fall and burn you.

Reinstall the board in the housing

Let the solder joints and relay cool before handling the board.
Slide the board back into the plastic housing and snap it into place.
Reinstall the housing cover and make sure the side snaps latch.
Vacuum dust from the board-housing area before reinstalling it in the dryer.
Dust can collect on the board and inside the housing, so remove as much as you can.

Reinstall the control board housing

Set the control-board housing back into its slots inside the dryer.
Slide the housing toward the rear of the machine until it seats fully.
Put a small piece of tape inside the 1/4 inch socket if you need help holding the housing screw.
Guide the screw into the hole with a finger and start threading it by hand.
Tighten the screw only until it starts to feel snug.
If a screw or socket falls inside the dryer, retrieve it before plugging the dryer back in.

Reconnect the wiring

Reconnect the top plugs and tabbed connectors in the reverse order you removed them.
Support the panel with one hand if the board shifts while you plug in a connector.
Insert each side-mounted clip into its slot from the side of the board.
Push each side clip in until it clicks and the locking tab pops up.
Compare the wiring against your photo and make sure every connector is fully seated.

Test the repair

Move all tools, screws, and loose parts away from the dryer interior.
Plug the dryer in only when you are ready to test it.
Keep your hands and tools out of the dryer while it has power, especially if the top is still off.
Select a normal cycle and press Start.
Stop the dryer and start it again to confirm it runs more than once without the F01 or F1 error.
Test another cycle, such as Delicate, if you want extra confirmation.
Unplug the dryer again before touching anything under the top panel.

Reinstall the top panel

Set the top panel on the dryer with the screw holes at the rear.
Align the front edge of the panel with the metal tabs at the front corners.
Push down on the front of the panel and slide it forward under the front tabs.
Pull up gently on both front corners to make sure the tabs are locked in place.
Thread the two rear screws by hand to avoid cross-threading them.
Tighten both rear screws with the 1/4 inch socket and ratchet.

Confirm the lasting fix

Run the dryer through several start-and-stop checks to confirm the relay repair is stable.
If the F01 or F1 error returns, unplug the dryer and recheck the relay solder joints and all board connectors.
Do not rely on patched solder alone, because a failed relay contact can overheat enough to melt solder from the board again.
The relay carries power through the board, so a failed relay can keep the dryer from running at all.

After the dryer starts repeatedly without the F01 or F1 error, monitor the first full load and stop using the dryer if you smell burning or see the error return. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

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