How to Troubleshoot Drainage Issues in an Electrolux Washing Machine

ElectroluxElectrolux Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 2 hours

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Use this guide to diagnose and fix an Electrolux washing machine that won't drain, won't run because of a drain fault, or shows related error codes such as E21, E84, E85, or E88. The drain hose, drain pump, sump filter, drain filter, debris filter, recirculation pump, and concentrate wash pump all help move water through or out of the washer. A clog, suds lock, failed pump, bad harness, or bad control board can stop draining. This guide was written around Electrolux 500 and 600 series front-load washers, but 300 and 400 series models may have different pump layouts and parts.

🧰 Tools

Phillips #2 Screwdriver
6-in-1 Screwdriver
7/16" Socket
Flexible Extension
Spring Hook
Digital Multimeter

⚙️ Parts

5304514775 - Frigidaire Washer Drain Pump Assembly
5304514769 - Frigidaire Washer Recirculation Pump Assembly

ШагиSteps

Verify the code and make the washer safe

Use the washer's diagnostic mode, if available, to confirm the failure before opening the machine.
Test 07 checks the door lock, Test 11 runs drain and spin, and Test 13 shows stored error codes on these Electrolux washers.
Treat E21 or a no-drain condition as a drain hose, sump filter, or drain pump problem until testing proves otherwise.
Treat E84, E85, or E88 as possible recirculation or concentrate wash pump faults in the same lower-front pump area.
Unplug the washer before removing panels or touching wiring.

Check the drain hose

Inspect the drain hose for kinks, clogs, crushed spots, or obstructions.
Make sure the hose enters the standpipe about 30 to 38 inches above the floor.
A standpipe that is too low can siphon water, and one that is too high can stop the pump from pushing water out.
Clear any blockage, secure the hose, and run drain and spin again before disassembling the washer.

Clear a suds lock

Confirm you're using HE detergent and the amount recommended for the load and detergent concentration.
Too much detergent or non-HE detergent can create a suds lock in the drain system.
Use white vinegar or liquid fabric softener to help purge suds quickly, then retry the washer.
Don't mix vinegar with chlorine bleach or other cleaning chemicals.

Prepare the washer for access

Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply.
Disconnect the fill hoses from the washer as needed to move it.
Move the washer to an area where you can reach the rear of the machine.
Place towels nearby, because water can spill when pump hoses are opened.

Remove the top panel

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two rear screws from the top panel.
Slide the top panel rearward and lift it off the washer.
Unplug the control interface wire harness at the front-left corner when viewed from the rear.

Loosen the bottom of the front panel

Tilt the washer rearward enough to access the bottom edge of the front panel.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four bottom screws.
Don't work under an unsupported washer, and use a helper if the appliance feels unstable.
Removing the front panel gives better control than working only through the underside opening.
Water from opened hoses can run rearward into the motor control system in the back-left corner and damage it.

Remove the dispenser drawer screws

Press the release button at the rear of the dispenser drawer and pull the drawer all the way out.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two dispenser-housing screws.
Leave the far-left screw that secures the interface to the bulkhead installed.

Remove the door lock

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two door lock screws.
Angle the left side of the lock housing and pull the lock out of the front panel.
Unplug the wire harness from the door lock.

Release the door boot spring

Use a flathead screwdriver to gently wedge between the door boot spring and the gasket.
Pry the spring out of its groove around the door gasket.
Don't stab or tear the rubber gasket while prying out the spring.

Remove the front bulkhead

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws along the top of the front bulkhead.
Lift the bulkhead up, pull it toward the front, and move it slightly away from the washer.
Support the door and bulkhead while the wiring is still connected.
Unplug the hidden interface harness once the bulkhead is partially removed.
Lift the bulkhead away from the washer and set it aside.

Identify the pump layout

Use this front-view layout to find the parts in the lower-front area.
Left side: concentrate wash pump.
Right side: drain pump.
Behind the drain pump: recirculation pump.
Lower hose tree: sump filter and drain path.
A clogged sump filter can cause the same kind of no-drain symptoms as a bad drain pump.

Choose the correct pump

Match replacement pumps by the full model number on the washer's model tag before ordering.
Electrolux 500 and 600 series washers use drain pump 5304514775, which replaces 5304505248 and 5304509619.
Electrolux 300 and 400 series washers use a different drain pump and don't have the recirculation or concentrate wash pumps.
Pump 5304514769 replaces 5304505224 and 5304509040 for recirculation and concentrate wash pump locations on compatible models.
Compatible examples include EFLS517SIW0, EFLS517STT0, EFLS527UIW0, EFLS527UIW1, EFLS527UIW2, EFLS527UTT0, EFLS527UTT1, EFLS527UTT2, EFLS617SIW0, EFLS617STT0, EFLS627UIW0, EFLS627UIW1, and EFLS627UIW2.
Other listed models include EFLS627UTT0, EFLS627UTT1, EFLS627UTT2, EFLS628WTT00, ELFW7537AT0, ELFW7537AT1, ELFW7537AW0, ELFW7537AW1, ELFW7537AW2, ELFW7626BW0, ELFW7637AT0, ELFW7637AT1, and ELFW7637AT2.
Also listed are ELFW7637AW0, ELFW7637AW1, ELFW7637BT1, ELFW7637BW1, ELFW7738AA0, ELFW7738AW0, ELTE7600AT0, ELTE7600AW0, ELTE760CAT0, ELTE760CAW0, ELTG7600AT0, and ELTG7600AW0.

Improve access if needed

Reach the sump filter through the front opening if your hand and arm fit comfortably.
Use a 7/16 inch socket to remove the lower counterbalance bolts if you need more room.
The lower counterbalance is heavy, so support it while removing the bolts.
Removing the counterbalance makes sump filter cleaning and pump replacement easier.
Use a small flexible-head socket wrench if you leave the counterbalance installed.

Drain water and disconnect hoses

Lay towels under the pump and hose area before loosening any hose.
Use a cup to remove trapped water where possible.
Work through only the hoses needed for the pump or sump filter you're servicing.
Remove the drain pump hose first if you want to drain as much water as possible.
The drain pump has a check valve that can slow the water as it drains out.
Move hose clamps out of the way as each hose is removed.

Remove the failed pump

Disconnect the wire harness from the pump by lifting the connector up and out.
Use a 5/16 inch screwdriver to remove the pump screws.
A small flexible-head socket wrench can help reach the screws if the counterbalance is still installed.
Remove the drain pump, concentrate wash pump, or recirculation pump that matches the code or failed test.
Keep the hoses and clamps organized so they return to the same pump ports.

Clean the sump filter

Use a Phillips screwdriver or 5/16 inch screwdriver to loosen the clamp on the sump hose.
Remove the hose and filter assembly from the sump area.
Wash debris out of the filter.
Remove any debris trapped inside the rubber hose tree.
The filter may only need cleaning, not replacement.
Align the notch near the rear of the hose with the rear of the tub during reinstallation.
Seat the inside lip of the hose fully on the sump before tightening the clamp.

Install the pump and hoses

Install the pump wire harness before snapping the pump into place.
Align the pump and snap it into its mount.
Use a 5/16 inch screwdriver to reinstall the pump screws.
Inspect every hose you removed for obstructions before reinstalling it.
Reinstall the drain pump intake hose, outflow hose, and any hose tree connections you removed.
Seat every hose clamp fully over its hose connection.

Reinstall the front bulkhead

Set the front bulkhead onto the four mounting pegs, with two pegs on each side.
Route the door lock harness through the bulkhead before snapping the front into place.
Reconnect the interface harness while positioning the bulkhead on the washer.
Press the bulkhead into place once both harnesses are routed correctly.

Reinstall the screws and door gasket

Use a Phillips screwdriver to reinstall the three top screws, four bottom screws, and two dispenser-housing screws.
Plug in the door lock harness, thread the lock from left to right, and reinstall the two door lock screws.
Roll the rubber gasket around the washer lip so it rests inside the groove.
Apply a small amount of dish soap to the back of the gasket if it doesn't slide into place easily.
Use a TSE1 spring tool to expand the spring at the top and fit the retainer wire around the gasket lip.
Make sure the retainer wire is fully seated around the door gasket.

Reconnect and test the washer

Reconnect the board-to-front wire harness.
Slide the top panel back into place and reinstall the two rear screws with a Phillips screwdriver.
Reconnect the fill hoses, turn on the water, and check the hose connections for leaks.
Plug in the washer and run a drain and spin test with water in the machine.
Keep hands away from wiring and moving parts once the washer is plugged in.
Watch the pump, sump, and hose connections for leaks while confirming the washer drains.

Access the control board for resistance tests

Unplug the washer before doing resistance checks.
Remove the screw from the black control box and open the cover.
Remove the front wiring connectors slowly to reach the pump connections behind the larger connectors.
The valve harness and harness connector come out as an assembly at J8, so don't force them apart.
Locate the J4 and J31 pump connectors on the control board.

Test the pump circuits

Set a multimeter to ohms and test the unplugged harness connectors going from the board to the pumps.
The J4 white-and-white drain pump circuit should read 13 to 18 ohms.
The J4 black-and-black recirculation pump circuit should read 27 to 45 ohms.
The J31 black-and-black concentrate pump circuit should read 27 to 45 ohms.
An OL reading means the pump or wire harness is open or bad.
Proper resistance with continued no-drain symptoms points toward a bad control board.
A failed pump can damage the control board, so some washers may need both parts replaced.
Don't perform live 120 V testing unless you're trained to work on energized appliances.

Run a short cycle and check for leaks around the sump, drain pump, and hose connections. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot Drainage Issues in an Electrolux Washing Machine» — автор eCuration, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →