How to Troubleshoot Mid Cycle Shutoff in a Samsung Dryer

SamsungSamsung dryerModerate⏱ 30 minutes - 1 hour

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Use this guide to troubleshoot a Samsung dryer that shuts off mid-cycle or will not restart until it cools down. Common causes include restricted airflow, an overheating motor, a weak breaker, a damaged power cord, a burned terminal block, or a failed control board. Use the symptom checks in this guide to narrow the problem before replacing parts.

🧰 Tools

Digital Multimeter
6-in-1 Screwdriver
Phillips #2 Screwdriver

⚙️ Parts

Smooth dryer pipe
Control board
Terminal block
Drive motor

ШагиSteps

Work safely

Turn off the dryer and unplug it before inspecting the power cord, terminal block, or internal wiring.
A dryer terminal block can carry 240 V when the cord is plugged in, so do not touch terminals or wires during live-voltage tests.
Use a multimeter for live AC tests only if you know how to work safely around energized appliances.
Have a qualified technician or electrician handle live testing or breaker replacement if you are unsure.

Identify the symptom

Choose the symptom that matches the dryer.
If the dryer starts again after sitting for 15 to 30 minutes, check airflow restrictions and motor overheating.
If the dryer will not turn back on at all, check whether the control display is dead or lights up but will not start the motor.
If the control display lights but pressing Start does not start the dryer, use a separate control-on no-start troubleshooting guide.

Check the vent pipe

Inspect the dryer vent path behind the dryer.
If the vent run is longer than 3 or 4 feet, make sure it uses smooth dryer pipe.
Replace long, restrictive venting with smooth dryer pipe.
Restricted airflow can trip the high-limit thermostat repeatedly and trigger a shutdown error code.
Power-cycling the dryer may restart it briefly, but the same problem will return if the restriction remains.

Check the outside vent flap

Inspect the vent flap where the dryer exhaust exits the house.
Remove dryer sheets, lint, animal nests, or other blockage that keeps the flap from opening.
Make sure the flap opens freely so air can vent out.
A blocked flap can overheat the heater and cause the same shutdown error.

Check for a failing motor

Listen to the dryer when it starts and when it shuts off.
Suspect a bad motor if the dryer makes a loud humming sound when it starts.
Suspect a bad motor if the dryer will not restart right away but starts again after sitting for 15 to 30 minutes.
Replace the motor if the dryer hums loudly and only restarts after cooling down.

Reset the dryer breaker

Locate the home electrical panel and find the breaker that controls the dryer.
Check for a tripped breaker, which may show a small red indicator.
If you are not sure whether it tripped, turn the breaker off, turn it back on, and check the dryer control display.
Have the breaker replaced if the control display turns on only after resetting it.
A weak breaker can trip when the dryer heater draws current.

Inspect the power cord

Unplug the dryer from the wall.
Inspect the terminals on the end of the power cord.
Look for brown discoloration, heat damage, looseness, or anything abnormal.
Replace the power cord if any terminal is brown, loose, damaged, or heat-discolored.
A damaged cord may keep the dryer from receiving the correct voltage.

Inspect the terminal block

Keep the dryer unplugged and inspect the terminal block on the back of the dryer.
Look for brown discoloration, heat damage, broken wires, or anything else abnormal.
Do not put your fingers or tools near the terminal block while the dryer is plugged in.
Repair or replace damaged wiring, a burned cord, or a damaged terminal block before using the dryer.
A burned cord or terminal connection can stop the dryer from running.

Test voltage at the terminal block

Plug the dryer back in only if the breaker, cord, and terminal block look good.
Set a multimeter to AC volts.
Check between each outside terminal-block screw and the center screw, and look for about 120 V AC each time.
Check between the two outside terminal-block screws and look for about 240 V AC.
Repair the incoming power, breaker, cord, or terminal connection if the readings are not correct.
Live 240 V testing can cause serious injury, so hire a qualified technician if you are not trained for this test.

Access the control board

Unplug the dryer before removing any panels.
Remove the two screws from the back of the top panel.
Lift off the top panel.
Remove the three screws securing the control-board assembly.
Move the control-board assembly onto the side of the dryer so you can reach it for voltage testing.

Test power at the control board

Plug the dryer back in only for this voltage test.
Set a multimeter to AC volts.
Place the black meter lead on the black wire at the motor-relay connector.
Touch the other meter lead to the center screw on the terminal block.
The control board is getting power if the meter reads about 124 V AC.
Replace the control board if it is getting power but the display does not light when you try to start the dryer.
Do not touch anything else on the board or terminal block while the dryer is plugged in.

Replace or repair the failed item identified during troubleshooting, then run the dryer and confirm it completes a cycle without shutting off. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

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