Whirlpool Dryer Timer Repair

WhirlpoolWhirlpool DryerModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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Your Whirlpool-made dryer that tumbles but won’t heat can have a timer with burned internal contacts, even after the heating element and sensors test good. This guide shows how to access the timer, confirm the failure with a continuity test between the A and C terminals, and refurbish the timer contacts with simple sanding. This is an inexpensive, temporary repair that often restores heat, but it won’t work in every case, and the timer may still need replacement later. This procedure applies to many Whirlpool, Kenmore, Amana, Estate, Roper, and Maytag dryers that use similar timers (including W10186032 and similar variants).

🧰 Tools

Putty Knife
Phillips #2 Screwdriver
Needle Nose Pliers
Large Flathead Screwdriver
Work Gloves
1/4" Nut Driver
Digital Multimeter
Emery board

ШагиSteps

Prepare for service

Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet.
Shut off the gas supply valve if working on a gas dryer.
Wear cut-resistant gloves to avoid sharp sheet-metal edges.
Work in a well-lit area so you can clearly see connector labels and terminal markings.

Remove the rear access cover

Use a nut driver to remove the six screws securing the rear access cover.
Remove the black rear cover plate.
Set the cover and screws aside so they don’t get lost.
Use the opening to view the back side of the console wiring.

Release the console

Slide a putty knife under one end of the console to find the hidden spring clip.
Press the spring clip in, and lift up to separate the console panel.
Repeat on the other side of the console.
Push the console forward, wiggle it, and slide it forward until the timer is easy to access.
This access method applies to many Whirlpool-made dryers that use a top-mounted lint filter and a clipped console.

Disconnect the timer wiring

Take a clear photo of the timer wiring so every connector goes back to the same terminal.
Pull the wire harness connectors off the timer terminals.
Locate the harness with the A, B, and C terminals, because this is the set that commonly causes no-heat issues.
Use a putty knife to press the locking tab on the motor connector, and pull the connector out.
Use a flathead screwdriver to help press the tab if the connector won’t release by hand.

Diagnose the timer with a continuity test

Set a multimeter to continuity mode.
Set the timer to a high heat portion of the cycle so the A and C contacts should be closed.
Touch the meter probes to terminals A and C on the timer connector set.
Treat no continuity between A and C as a likely failed timer contact set.

Remove the timer from the console

Use a nut driver to remove the timer mounting nuts if the timer is held in with nuts.
Use needle-nose pliers to press the mounting clips in if the timer is held in with clips instead of nuts.
Remove the ground screw attached near the timer.
Pull the timer knob straight off the timer shaft.
Lower the timer out of the console, and keep the knob for bench testing.

Open the timer housing

Place the timer on a work surface.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the timer assembly together.
Lift the motor assembly off, and set it aside where it won’t get lost.
Remove the knob if it’s still installed.
Keep the black side down, and lift off the metal housing.
Opening the timer upside down can let the internal cams fall out of place.

Inspect the internals for common failures

Identify the three contact points associated with the A, B, and C terminals.
Rotate the gearshaft out of high heat and into a low or no-heat mode to separate the contacts.
Inspect the contact surfaces for corrosion, heat damage, or charring.
Inspect the plastic gear case and shaft, because a stripped or damaged coupling can make the timer unusable.
Treat a timer that can’t be rotated normally as a likely non-repairable timer.

Polish the burned contacts

Remove the cam between C and D if it blocks access, and note its orientation for reinstallation.
Use an emery board to file and polish the corroded contact surfaces until they look clean and shiny.
Keep filing until the contact surfaces are evenly polished, which can take five to 15 minutes or more on heavily burned timers.
Replace the emery board if it clogs or wears out, because you may need more than one to finish the job.

Retest continuity on the open timer

Rotate the gearshaft back into a high heat mode, which is commonly in the upper-right quadrant of the dial.
Set the multimeter to continuity mode.
Test continuity between A and C using the timer terminals, and treat continuity as a pass result.
Continue polishing the contacts if A to C still reads open in a high heat position.

Adjust the contact travel if needed

Sand the plastic stop near the A contact if sanding the metal increased the contact gap and the contacts no longer meet reliably.
Bend the A contact slightly forward with needle-nose pliers if the contacts still won’t touch after sanding the plastic.
Avoid over-bending, because the contact may no longer sit flush on the contact pad.

Reassemble the timer and check for binding

Reinstall any removed cams in their original orientation.
Install the metal face back onto the timer with the black side down.
Flip the timer over, and seat the motor assembly onto the gear train.
Advance the timer slightly if the motor won’t sit all the way down, because the gears may need to align.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the two screws that hold the timer together.
Rotate the shaft or knob by hand to confirm the timer advances without binding.

Bench test the repaired timer

Reinstall the knob onto the timer shaft.
Set the timer to a high heat setting, and test continuity between A and C.
Test continuity between B and C as an additional check.
Advance the timer to another high heat region such as auto dry, and confirm the continuity result stays consistent.

Reinstall the timer and test dryer heat

Reinstall the timer into the console, and secure it with its mounting nuts or clips.
Reinstall the ground screw and the timer knob.
Reconnect every wire harness to the correct terminal, and confirm each connector is fully seated and locked.
Slide the console back into place, and press down until both spring clips latch.
Reinstall the rear access cover and its six screws.
Restore power and run a high heat cycle to confirm the dryer heats.
This low-cost contact repair often works but may only buy time, and some timers won’t refurbish and must be replaced.

If the dryer heats again after timer contact polishing and adjustment, keep an eye on performance because this repair often restores function temporarily but does not reverse underlying timer wear. If A to C still reads open on high heat after cleaning and adjustment, the timer has moved past a practical refurbish and should be replaced. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«Whirlpool Dryer Timer Repair» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →