How to Troubleshoot No Heat in an Electrolux Dryer

ElectroluxElectrolux DryerModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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If an Electrolux or Frigidaire stackable front-load dryer runs but won’t heat, the problem is usually a power supply issue, a blown fuse, a failed thermostat or thermistor, a bad heating element, or (less commonly) a control board that isn’t sending power to the heater. This guide walks through safe disassembly, meter tests for the common heating components, replacing failed parts, and advanced control board voltage checks.

🧰 Tools

Phillips #2 Screwdriver
Needle Nose Pliers
Work Gloves
Digital Multimeter
Vacuum Cleaner
Angled Socket Wrench
High-Temperature Cable Ties

⚙️ Parts

137032600 Frigidaire Dryer Thermal Fuse
137032600 - Frigidaire Dryer Thermal Limiter
137114000 Frigidaire / Electrolux Dryer Heating Cannister
Electrolux Heater - 137114000
134792700 Frigidaire / Electrolux Dryer Heating Cannister kit
Frigidaire Dryer Heating 3 Coil Element Assembly 5500 Watt - 134792700
3204267 Frigidaire / Electrolux Dryer Thermostat
Electrolux Dryer Safety Thermostat - 3204267
134587700 Frigidaire / Electrolux Dryer Thermistor
134587700 - Frigidaire Dryer Control Thermistor

ШагиSteps

Prepare for a no-heat diagnosis

Wear work gloves, and watch for sharp sheet-metal edges inside the dryer.
Gather a Phillips screwdriver, a multimeter, and a vacuum with a flexible attachment for lint removal.
Keep a phone or camera handy, and photograph any wire connections before unplugging them.

Check terminal block and supply voltage

Turn the dryer off, pull it forward, and remove the rear terminal block cover screw with a Phillips screwdriver.
Inspect the terminal block and power cord for blackened, burnt, or melted areas.
Set a multimeter to AC voltage, and measure center-to-left for 120 VAC and center-to-right for 120 VAC.
Measure left-to-right for about 208–240 VAC.
Stop here if readings are low, and cycle the breaker fully off and fully on or repair the outlet supply issue.
Touching live terminals can shock or kill you, so don’t do voltage tests unless you’re trained and confident using a meter.

Remove the top panel and unplug the dryer

Remove the two screws at the rear edge of the top panel with a Phillips screwdriver.
Slide the top panel back, and lift it off the dryer.
Look for a tech sheet tucked under the top, and set it aside for later pinout and schematic reference.
Unplug the dryer from the wall before disconnecting any internal wires.

Remove the interface and control board from the front bulkhead

Remove the two screws holding the interface to the bulkhead with a Phillips screwdriver.
Release the interface wire harness, removing the two bracket screws if the harness retainer blocks access.
Remove the interface from the bulkhead.
Remove the two screws holding the dryer control board assembly in place, and lift it free of the bulkhead.
Frigidaire-style harnesses can fit the wrong plugs, so rely on photos during reassembly.

Remove the front panel

Open the dryer door, and remove the two screws that secure the front panel to the gray bulkhead.
Remove the two lint filter housing screws inside the door opening.
Close the door, and remove the two lower front screws near the bottom corners.
Remove the two top front screws, and support the front panel so it doesn’t fall forward.
Lift the front panel up a little, disconnect the door switch harness between the front and bulkhead, and remove the front panel.

Remove the front bulkhead

Disconnect the door light switch plug from the control board, and record its location.
Remove the two lower bulkhead screws with a Phillips screwdriver.
Lift the bulkhead up, and pull it slightly away from the chassis.
Pinch the cable tie holding the door switch harness at the lower right with needle nose pliers, and release it without cutting.
Remove the bulkhead or set it to the side with the wiring still attached if there’s enough slack.

Remove the drum

Reach into the dryer and locate the idler pulley on the right side behind the blower and motor assembly.
Pull the idler pulley to the left to relieve belt tension, and slip the belt off the motor pulley.
Use the belt as a handle, and lift the drum up and out of the chassis.

Clean lint from the filter housing and vent path

Inspect the filter housing and surrounding ducting for lint buildup.
Use a vacuum and a flexible vent attachment to remove lint from hard-to-reach areas.
Remove any packed lint by hand if the vent tool repeatedly clogs.
Lint buildup can cause poor drying, overheating, and repeated fuse failures.

Test the blower thermistor

Pull the two thermistor terminals off the black blower thermistor.
Set the multimeter to resistance in the 20–200 kΩ range if it isn’t auto-ranging.
Measure across the thermistor terminals, and confirm 50,000–55,000 Ω at room temperature.
Replace the thermistor if resistance is far outside range or the meter shows OL.
Reconnect the thermistor terminals after testing.

Test the blower outlet fuse

Remove the wires from the outlet fuse on the vent pipe near the blower housing.
Set the multimeter to resistance or continuity, and measure across the fuse terminals.
Confirm the fuse reads 0.00 Ω or very close to it.
Replace the outlet fuse if the meter shows OL.

Test the heater canister thermostat and thermal fuse

Remove the wires from the thermostat at the rear of the heating canister.
Set the multimeter to resistance or continuity, and confirm the thermostat reads 0.00 Ω or very close to it.
Remove the wires from the thermal fuse in the middle of the heating canister, and test for 0.00 Ω or very close to it.
Replace any component that shows OL because it will prevent heating.
Clean the lint system if a thermal fuse is blown because overheating usually causes the fuse to trip.
Consider replacing the thermostat along with a blown thermal fuse because the thermostat can fail while still testing good.

Test the heating element for continuity and shorts

Remove all connectors from the heating element terminals on the front of the heating canister.
Set the multimeter to resistance, and measure between the right post and each left post on a three-left one-right setup for 25–30 Ω.
Measure between the left posts individually, and confirm about 50 Ω.
Measure across the two posts on a two-wire setup, and confirm roughly 10 Ω.
Replace the element if any required measurement shows OL.
Check for a grounded coil by touching one lead to the metal canister and the other to each post, and replace the canister if you get anything other than OL.

Remove the heating canister if it failed testing

Label or photograph all heater and sensor wires, then disconnect them from the heating canister.
Remove the two screws that secure the canister feet to the chassis.
Remove the small screw at the rear right side of the bulkhead that may also secure the canister.
Use an angled wrench or a very short stubby Phillips screwdriver for the rear screw if clearance is tight.

Transfer sensors and assemble the replacement canister

Remove the sensors from the old canister by removing the two small screws from each sensor.
Remove the two screws inside the lip of the element, bending the faceplate slightly if needed, and remove the front cover.
Install the thermal fuse on the replacement canister using the correct small screws.
Install the canister legs, seating them into the recess so everything lines up, and reinstall the two screws that go into the feet.
Press any bent metal cover back closer to the canister so it fits correctly.

Install the heating canister and reconnect wiring

Seat the heating canister into the chassis, aligning the feet with the metal slots so it only fits one way.
Push the canister snugly into the rear bulkhead area, then reinstall the foot screws and the rear retaining screw if used on the unit.
Reconnect all heating element and sensor wires to their original locations.
Don’t bend or force a spade connector onto the element terminal because it can degrade from heat and vibration.
Reroute the harness for extra slack if a terminal doesn’t reach, then secure the wire trunk with a high-temperature cable tie.

Reinstall the drum and belt

Confirm the idler pulley spring is still attached and seated correctly.
Wrap the belt around the drum on the worn ridge, and orient the drum so the rear ridge faces the idler and motor area.
Lower the drum into the chassis so it rests on the rear bulkhead between the roller wheels.
Pull the idler pulley to the left, loop the belt around the motor pulley, and keep the belt ridges facing the inside of the drum.
Rotate the drum by hand, and confirm it turns smoothly and drives the blower wheel without unusual noise.

Reinstall the bulkhead and reconnect switches

Position the bulkhead so its side tabs rest in the chassis holes, then slot the top tabs into place.
Rotate the drum as needed so the bulkhead aligns on the front rollers behind it.
Reinstall the two bottom bulkhead screws.
Snap the door switch wire harness back into the bulkhead, and reconnect the door light switch to the control board.
Reinstall the two screws that secure the control board cross plate after its fingers are inserted into the bulkhead.

Reinstall the front panel and top panel

Hang the front panel on its chassis tabs, and reconnect the door wire harness before fully seating the panel.
Reinstall the two top front screws to secure the front panel to the chassis.
Open the door, and reinstall the two lint filter housing screws.
Reconnect the interface-to-control-board wire harness to the correct receptacle, then lock the interface tabs into the front panel.
Slide the top panel into place, and reinstall the two rear top screws.

Inspect the control board for obvious damage

Unplug the dryer, photograph all control board connections, and remove the two crossbar screws holding the board assembly.
Lift the board assembly up, and disconnect the wire harnesses from the board.
Pry the five or six tabs holding the board cover on, remove the cover, and pull the board out.
Inspect the relay area and the underside for burnt traces or failed solder joints.
Replace the control board if damage is extensive or you find clear electrical failure signs.

Perform advanced board output voltage testing

Reconnect all eight wire harnesses to the control board using your photos, leaving the board loose for access.
Use the tech sheet schematic to identify heater-output pinouts J52, J71, and J73.
Plug the dryer in only for the live test, and use extreme caution around exposed 240 VAC wiring.
Measure AC voltage from the terminal block black wire feeding the motor system to each heater-output pinout wire, and look for over 200 VAC when heat should be on.
Replace the control board if readings are under 200 VAC at the heater outputs during a heat call because the relays aren’t switching properly.
This live-voltage pinout test isn’t recommended for most DIY repairs, so stop and call a technician if you’re unsure.

If the dryer heats again after you correct the failed component and any lint or vent restriction, finish by cleaning the airflow path so the same overheating fault does not return. If the heater circuit still tests good but the dryer stays cold, the remaining fault is likely in the control-board output or wiring path rather than the common heater components. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot No Heat in an Electrolux Dryer» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →