How to Troubleshoot Drain Errors in a Samsung Front Load Washing Machine

SamsungSamsung Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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If your Samsung washing machine won’t drain, it may stop mid-cycle and show drain-related codes like ND, 5C, SE, SC, or SUDS. This guide walks through the drain hose setup, safely draining leftover water, cleaning the drain pump filter, and accessing and replacing the drain pump motor when cleaning alone doesn’t restore draining.

🧰 Tools

Phillips #2 Screwdriver
6-in-1 Screwdriver
Shop Towels
Bucket
Digital Multimeter
Cordless Driver/Drill
Water Bottle

⚙️ Parts

DP1 Universal Drain Pump
DP2 Universal Drain Pump

ШагиSteps

Prepare for a no drain repair

Unplug the washing machine before touching any internal parts or electrical connectors.
Turn off the water supply valves to reduce the risk of leaks while moving or tilting the washer.
Place shop towels and a bucket near the front of the washer because draining and filter removal can spill water.
Visual reference: water paths are tub → drain pump → drain hose → standpipe.

Check the drain hose and standpipe positioning

Pull the washer forward enough to see where the drain hose enters the standpipe behind the washer.
Make sure the drain hose doesn’t go more than 7 inches (18 cm) into the standpipe.
Set the standpipe so it is level with, or slightly taller than, the height where the drain hose exits the washer.
Avoid placing the drain hose outlet far below the washer because gravity draining can cause errors.
Visual reference: standpipe height ≥ washer drain outlet height, and hose insertion depth ≤ 7 inches (18 cm).

Drain residual water from the front drain hose

Press in and remove the front drain access panel, if the washer has one.
Pull out the small black drain hose from the access area to drain the tub before opening the filter cap.
Put the end of the small black drain hose into a plastic water bottle and drain into the bottle.
Empty the bottle into a bucket and repeat until the washer stops draining water from the small black hose.
Visual reference: small black hose drains into a bottle, and the bottle is dumped into a bucket.

Clean the drain pump filter

Place shop towels under the filter area to catch any remaining water.
Unscrew the white drain pump filter cap and remove the filter assembly.
Remove any debris from the filter, including pet hair and buildup that can block pumping.
Reinstall and fully tighten the filter cap, then try running the washer again to see if draining returns to normal.
Clean this filter every four to six months if the washer has this style of catch-out filter.
Visual reference: filter cap is directly behind the front drain access panel.

Decide how to access the drain pump

Check for an access hole underneath the washer that lets you reach the drain pump from the bottom.
If bottom access is available, you can unhook the rubber drain hose at the pump and remove the two screws on the front to pull out the drain pump without removing the entire front panel.
This bottom-access method requires proper bracing and is only for people who are very comfortable working around a heavy washer.
Do not put any part of your body under a washer that isn’t securely braced because a 200-pound washer can seriously injure or kill you.
Use the full front-panel removal method if you want the safer, more controlled way to access the pump.
Visual reference: bottom-access reaches the pump from below, and front-panel removal reaches the pump from the front.

Remove the top panel and detergent drawer

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws at the top rear of the lid.
Lift off the top panel.
Remove the detergent dispenser by pressing the release button, which is typically on the back left side of the drawer.
Remove any screws that keep the dispenser housing in place, if the washer has them.
Visual reference: the detergent drawer pulls out from the top-left of the front control area.

Release the control panel

Open the door and use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws from the door latch.
Roll the control panel toward the front, then pull up to snap it out of place.
Rest the control panel on top of the washer without unplugging any connectors.
Visual reference: the control panel tilts forward and lifts up after its retaining snaps release.

Release the door boot spring and gasket

Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the door retention spring that runs around the rubber gasket.
Peel the rubber seal away from the lip of the door opening.
Visual reference: the metal spring sits in the outer groove of the rubber gasket around the door opening.

Remove the front panel

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws at the top of the washer front near the door opening.
Remove the three screws underneath the front panel if the washer has them, and tilt the washer rearward if needed to access them.
Press down the two metal retaining fingers with a screwdriver while pulling the top lip of the washer front to dislodge it.
Pull the entire front panel outward, then lift it up to free it from the washer.
Visual reference: two metal fingers at the top hold the front panel to the cross piece behind the interface area.

Inspect drain hoses for blockages

Inspect the rubber hoses connected to the drain pump once the front panel is removed.
Check the hose path from the drain pump outlet to the standpipe for obstructions that would prevent water from leaving the pump.
Clear any blockage you find before replacing parts.
Visual reference: blockage anywhere between the pump outlet and the standpipe can stop draining even if the pump is good.

Remove the drain pump

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the drain pump in place.
Push the pump rearward to free any remaining hoses still mated to the pump.
Remove the pump from the washer.
Visual reference: the pump mounts low in the front of the washer behind the drain filter housing area.

Remove and test the drain pump motor

Use a drill gun or a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws that hold the pump motor to the pump housing.
Try to spin the impeller to feel how the motor turns.
A good impeller typically has strong resistance and distinct magnetic snap points as it rotates through several segments.
Replace the drain pump motor if the impeller feels very sloppy or loose and doesn’t have much magnetic catch.
Visual reference: the impeller is the fan-like paddle inside the pump motor opening.

Install the replacement pump motor and reinstall the pump

Install the replacement drain pump motor onto the existing housing and reinstall the three motor screws.
Reinstall the pump into the washer and reconnect the hoses to the pump.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to reinstall the two screws that secure the pump to the washer.
Visual reference: the pump sits on its mounting points, and the hoses clamp onto the pump ports.

Reinstall the front panel and door latch

Set the front panel onto the small bottom fingers, then pivot the panel upward into position.
Position the door latch near its square opening before snapping the front panel fully into place so it doesn’t fall behind the gasket area.
Reach behind the rubber gasket, place the door latch into the square opening, and use a Phillips screwdriver to reinstall the two door latch screws.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to reinstall the three bottom screws and the four top screws that secure the front panel to the chassis.
Visual reference: the door latch mounts behind the front panel and must align with the square cutout.

Reinstall the door gasket and spring

Work the rubber gasket back over the metal lip around the door opening until it folds and snaps into place all the way around.
Be careful around the door opening because the metal lip can be sharp.
Reinstall the metal door boot spring around the gasket to secure it.
Use a wrench and high-strength cable ties to stretch and install the spring if the spring eyelets are too small to grab easily.
Visual reference: the spring sits in the gasket groove and clamps the gasket to the front panel lip.

Reinstall the control panel and test the washer

Fit the control panel into its mounting holes on the front, and snap it into place.
Align the detergent drawer area with the control panel so it snaps and lines up correctly.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to reinstall the four screws on the top of the control panel.
Reinstall the detergent dispenser drawer.
Run a test cycle to verify draining before reinstalling the top panel.
Visual reference: the control panel uses small mounting holes, including one on each side, that can be hard to see.

Access the PCB to check drain pump wiring

Unplug the washing machine before working near the PCB.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws on the back of the washer that hold the PCB assembly in place.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws on the top holding the crossbar that blocks PCB removal.
Push the PCB assembly to the side and remove it, and disconnect any small ethernet cable if the washer has one.
Use your fingers and a flathead screwdriver to release the five or six tabs holding the PCB cover, and remove the cover.
Visual reference: the PCB sits in a plastic housing at the rear of the washer under a snap-tab cover.

Test the drain pump circuit with a multimeter

Use a multimeter at the PCB test points for the drain pump circuit as identified by the washer’s schematic.
Check resistance to confirm continuity down to the drain pump, and treat an OL or open line reading as a wiring connection or frayed wire problem.
Treat a drain pump resistance reading between 10 ohms and 60 ohms as typical for a good pump.
Voltage test the drain pump by running a cycle and measuring for 120 volts being sent from the PCB to the pump.
Treat no voltage at the drain pump during a drain command as a likely PCB relay issue that requires PCB replacement.
Visual reference: the multimeter leads touch the drain pump circuit points on the PCB, not the pump itself.

Clear the SUDS code to protect the drain pump

Treat the SUD or S-U-D code as a too-many-suds condition that can burn out the drain pump as it struggles to move water through suds.
Pour about a half cup of laundry fabric softener into the washer’s dispenser.
Slowly pour about a half gallon of water into the dispenser tray so the water mixes with the softener and flows into the machine.
Wait five to 15 minutes for the fabric softener to break down the suds.
Run the washer as normal, and use less detergent and high-efficiency detergent in the future.
Visual reference: the softener and water go into the dispenser so the mixture enters the tub through the normal dispenser path.

Reinstall the top panel

Set the top panel back into place.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to reinstall the two screws at the top rear of the lid.
Visual reference: the top panel slides into position and locks down with two rear screws.

If the washer drains normally after hose correction, filter cleaning, or pump service, keep the drain path clean and use the correct detergent so the same error does not return. If the washer still will not drain after the pump, wiring, and board checks, recheck the exact model’s schematic and control logic before replacing more parts. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot Drain Errors in a Samsung Front Load Washing Machine» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →