How to Troubleshoot the Grinding Noises in a Whirlpool Dryer

WhirlpoolWhirlpool DryerModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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Grinding, squeaking, thumping, or scraping noises in a Whirlpool dryer are usually caused by something rubbing, stuck debris, or worn rotating parts. This guide walks through the most common noise sources: the blower wheel and housing (lint and foreign objects), the drum roller wheels (flat spots or seized rollers), the idler pulley (worn groove), and drum/bulkhead rubbing. It also shows how to open the dryer, inspect parts, clean lint buildup, replace roller wheels, and reassemble the dryer.

🧰 Tools

5/16 Inch Nut Driver
Putty Knife
Flat-blade Screwdriver
Small pick
Vacuum
Brush
Small parts container
Work Gloves

⚙️ Parts

Drum roller wheel
Idler Pulley
Drum Belt
Rear drum felt seal

ШагиSteps

Check the drum for loose objects

Open the dryer door and check the drum for trash or small items that could grind or thump while the drum turns.
Remove any debris you find before disassembling the dryer.

Disconnect power

Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet.
WARNING: A dryer contains high-voltage wiring, even near the panels you’ll remove, so don’t work on it while it’s plugged in.
Caution: Wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp sheet-metal edges.

Remove the rear panel

Use a 1/4 inch hex-head screwdriver to remove the screws from the rear panel.
Expect eight to 10 screws, depending on the model and whether a steam port is present.
Remove the plastic cap at the steam port area if present.
Keep the screws in a container so they don’t get lost.

Remove the blower housing

Remove the two screws underneath the lint filter opening to free the blower housing.
Hold a hand under each screw so it doesn’t fall into the housing.
Use a 1/4 inch hex-head screwdriver to remove the three to four screws at the bottom of the blower housing.
Slide the blower housing off the dryer, wiggling it up and out if it’s tight.
If the housing won’t clear the cabinet, lifting the top panel can create more room.

Inspect and clean the blower wheel and housing

Inspect the blower wheel area for items stuck in the housing that could jam the wheel or rub while it spins.
Remove lint and debris from the blower housing with a vacuum and a brush.
Check the blower wheel for damage, missing pieces, or cracks that could cause loud noise.
Caution: Don’t run the dryer with the housing removed, and keep fingers, hair, and clothing away from rotating parts.

Reinstall the blower housing and rear panel

Slide the blower housing back into the cabinet the same way it came out, working the bottom edge into the chassis slowly.
Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to help press the housing into place if it hangs up.
Reinstall the three to four bottom screws and the two screws under the lint filter opening.
Reinstall the rear panel and all of its screws.

Release the top panel

Slide a putty knife into the seam between the top and the front panel to find the two plastic clips.
Push the putty knife inward to release each clip while gently lifting the top panel.
If a clip won’t release, press the other clip while gently pulling up on the lid to help dislodge it.
If needed, remove the 5/16 screws along the upper rear area so the top and console can move forward and the hinges can be undone.
Inspect the belt for missing sections or severe damage.
Caution: Don’t rotate the drum by pulling on sharp holes, and use an inside drum baffle if you need to turn it by hand.

Disconnect the door switch and remove the front panel

Disconnect the door switch wire harness by pressing the release tab with a flat-blade screwdriver or putty knife.
Older-style connectors can be difficult, and a smaller screwdriver can help.
Use a 5/16 inch screwdriver to remove the screw on each side that holds the front panel in place.
Lift the front panel up and pivot it toward you to remove it from the two bottom support “fingers.”
Note: The drum will drop down and forward when the front panel comes off, and that’s normal.

Remove the belt from the motor and pull out the drum

Push the idler pulley to the right to loosen the belt and slip the belt off the motor pulley.
For easier removal, push the belt forward on the motor pulley, then pull the idler pulley slightly toward you to lift the belt off in one motion.
Use the belt as a handle to pull the drum out of the cabinet if the belt is still intact.
Guide the drum through the cabinet bulge so it clears the sides without scraping.

Inspect common noise sources inside the dryer

Inspect the top of the rear bulkhead for rubbing, missing paint, torn metal, or other damage that could indicate the drum is contacting the bulkhead.
Damage here can be caused by a damaged or missing rear drum felt seal.
Spin both drum roller wheels and check for rollers that don’t spin freely, as well as flat spots or missing chunks of rubber.
Inspect the idler pulley for wear that could create a groove in the pulley and cause noise while the belt rides on it.
Check the motor area for lint buildup or obstructions, and clean it to prevent noise and future problems.

Replace a drum roller wheel

Remove the metal bracket that holds the roller wheel, and pull the roller and bracket off the shaft.
Use a flat-blade screwdriver or a small pick to remove the tri-ring collar from the shaft by prying each corner out of the shaft groove until it comes off.
Pull the roller wheel off the shaft, and remove any wrapped hair or debris until only bare metal remains.
Polish the shaft with sandpaper or emery cloth to restore it.
Install the new pre-greased roller wheel, then reinstall a new tri-ring by working it onto the shaft one corner at a time with a flat-blade screwdriver.
Reinstall the metal bracket, and install the small metal washer if your kit includes one by pressing it into place with a screwdriver.
Repeat the same tri-ring, roller, cleaning, and polishing process for the second roller wheel.

Reinstall the drum and route the belt

Use the belt to push the drum back into place, and make sure the felt is at the rear and the plastic front edge faces the front of the dryer.
Seat the drum onto the back bulkhead.
Support the drum with a 5 inch-high box so it stays in place while you reinstall the idler pulley and belt.
Slot the left side of the idler pulley into the square hole in the chassis, pull the idler to the right, loop the belt through the middle of the idler, and place the belt on the motor spindle.
Turn the drum by hand to confirm the belt tracks correctly and the drum rotates smoothly, then remove the box and any tools under the drum.

Reinstall the front panel and reconnect the door switch

Set the front panel into position so the two small bottom squares on the door rest on each side of the chassis hooks, and the drum rests on the front bulkhead.
Press the front panel flush to the chassis, lift it up, and rest it on the hooks, fitting one side at a time if needed.
Use a 5/16 inch screwdriver to reinstall the screws in the door frame to secure the front panel.
Make sure the black metal clips are in place so the chassis holes and front panel holes line up.
Hold a hand under each screw while starting it so you can catch it if it falls.
Reconnect the door switch wire harness.

Close the top panel and restore remaining screws

Lower the top panel and press along the front edge until the clips snap into place.
Reinstall any screws you removed from the lint filter opening area.
Plug the dryer back in, run a short cycle, and listen for abnormal noises.

If the noise is gone, the issue was likely debris in the blower housing, worn roller wheels, or a worn idler pulley. If you still hear grinding after cleaning and replacing wear parts, recheck for rubbing at the bulkhead and listen for motor bearing noise, since a failing motor can also create loud sounds. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot the Grinding Noises in a Whirlpool Dryer» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →