Whirlpool Washing Machine Control Board F3E1 Pressure Sensor Repair

WhirlpoolWhirlpool Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 2 hours

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If a Whirlpool-built washer shows an F3E1 pressure sensor code, runs the drain pump constantly, shuts off randomly, or overfills during auto-sensing, the control board’s pressure sensor may have failed. This guide shows how to replace the board-mounted pressure sensor (ADP51B62M02) using basic through-hole soldering and desoldering techniques.

🧰 Tools

Soldering Iron
Desoldering Pump
Hot Air Rework Station Hakko FR-810B-05
Solder Leaded 63 37 Rosin Core
Precision Needle-nose Pliers
Helping Hands
Multimeter
Magnifying Glass
Desoldering Braid

⚙️ Parts

Pressure sensor

ШагиSteps

Prepare the control board for soldering work

Unplug the washing machine from the wall outlet before servicing it.
Turn off the water supply valves to reduce the risk of leaks while the machine is open.
Remove the control board and place it on a stable, well-lit work surface with ESD protection if available.
Work in a ventilated area and avoid breathing solder fumes.
Plan on using basic through-hole soldering and desoldering techniques.

Confirm the symptom and affected models

Confirm the washer is showing the F3E1 pressure sensor code and may be stuck in a constant drain mode.
Treat constant pump running, failure to stop draining, random shutoff, or overfilling on auto-sensing as common related symptoms.
This repair commonly applies to models NTW4516FW, NTW4619FW, WTW4655JW, WTW4816HW, WTW4850HW, WTW4855HW, WTW4950HW, WTW4955HW, WTW4957PW, WET4027HW, WETLV27HW, and WGT4027HW.

Locate the pressure sensor pins

Find the pressure sensor on the control board and identify the eight pins that pass through the PCB.
Flip the board so the underside faces up and locate the eight soldered pin joints for the sensor.

Clear any conformal coating from the joints

Inspect the solder joints for a light conformal coating that can block desoldering.
Use a hot air rework station or another heated desoldering tool to break through the coating before trying to clear solder with a pump or wick.
Avoid overheating the board, which can lift pads or damage traces.

Desolder the eight sensor pins

Desolder the eight pins one by one with a desoldering pump, or use a soldering iron with desoldering wick if you do not have a pump.
Expect the pins to be flat and wide, which can make solder removal slower than typical round leads.
Rework stubborn joints until the solder is fully cleared, especially on any pins that still look filled, and switch to wick if needed to finish clearing the holes.
Take extra time on boards with uneven joints, as some boards may have been remanufactured previously.

Remove the old sensor without damaging the board

Flip the board as needed and use needle-nose pliers to apply gentle lifting pressure to the sensor while you continue desoldering.
Pull only when the pins are free, and stop if the sensor will not move because solder is still holding it.
Watch for pins pulling away from the old sensor during removal, especially on stubborn boards.
Remove the sensor once all pins release from the PCB holes.

Verify the replacement sensor and its orientation

Verify the replacement sensor part number is ADP51B62M02 before installation.
Confirm the sensor style matches the board, since pressure sensor styles can vary by board.
Align the sensor so the correct row of pins matches the board traces, since one row does nothing and the other supplies voltage feedback.
Orient the sensor so the pressure hole sits on the opposite side from the traces, with that side facing away from the traced side of the footprint.
Don’t rely on the pin one chamfer, because it can be very hard to see.

Seat and hold the new sensor

Insert the new sensor pins into the PCB holes and seat the sensor flat against the board.
Hold the sensor in place with helping hands or another stable support while soldering.

Solder the new sensor pins

Use a soldering iron and 63/37 rosin-core solder to attach the sensor to the board.
Focus on the three key solder points on the bottom and keep solder from bridging to the other pins.
Limit heat on the sensor to avoid damaging the internal contacts, and use low-temperature rosin-core solder if available.
Inspect the joints with a phone camera or magnifying glass to confirm there are no solder bridges grounding pins together.
Let the solder cool before handling the board or reconnecting wiring.

Reconnect wiring and clear the stuck drain state

Gently plug the seven wire connectors back into the control board.
Restore power and check whether the board is still running the last flood-control or drain command.
Press and hold the red Pause/Cancel button for 10 seconds to cancel the operation if needed.

Test the pressure-sensor repair

Test the sensor by measuring voltage from pin 3 to pin 4 during operation with a multimeter.
Expect about 0.3 to 0.4 volts while filling for auto-sense.
You can also test without a meter by running a normal load and confirming the tub fills to an appropriate non-deep-fill level and shuts off correctly.
Stop the cycle if it overfills, because that indicates a problem with the sensor installation or circuit.

Restore moisture protection

Apply a very light coat of conformal coating to the rear side of the board over the repaired solder joints if desired.
Conformal coating isn’t required, but it helps protect the board from moisture.

If the washer still drains endlessly after replacement, recheck the sensor’s orientation against the board traces and inspect the solder joints for bridges or cold joints. If the old sensor was difficult to remove, also inspect the PCB pads and through-holes for damage that could prevent a good electrical connection. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«Whirlpool Washing Machine Control Board F3E1 Pressure Sensor Repair» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →