How to Fix a Whirlpool Washing Machine That Shakes

WhirlpoolWhirlpool Washing MachineModerate⏱ 2 - 4 hours

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If a Whirlpool top-load washer with oval control lights shakes, bangs, or “walks” during spin, the problem is usually leveling, calibration, worn suspension-rod damping, or wear in the hub and tub support parts. This guide walks through checks and repairs, from free fixes to more involved refurbishing and part replacement. It was written using a Whirlpool washer with oval control lights, but similar models may have small differences.

🧰 Tools

Bubble Level
Masking Tape
6-in-1 Screwdriver
Probe and Pick Set
Large Needle Nose Pliers
Slip-jaw wrench
Socket Wrench
7 16 socket
5/16 deep well socket
Mini sledge or hammer
Drill driver
TB123 spanner wrench
Bucket
Towels
PVC pipe or 2x4
socket 10mm
Socket extensions
Detailing Brush

⚙️ Parts

Washing machine suspension damping grease
Suspension rod set
Suspension rod foam insert
Metal washer hub W10324651
Drive block
Tub bushing sleeve
Gearcase shim kit
Balance ring
Tub cover
Threadlocker

ШагиSteps

Prepare for service

Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.
Turn off both water supply valves, and disconnect the fill hoses if you need to tilt the washer.
WARNING: The washer is heavy, and tilting it can cause it to tip, pinch fingers, or strain your back, so get help if needed.
Caution: Tilting can let water drain from the drain hose, so lower the hose into a bucket to catch water if needed.

Level the washer

Set a bubble level on the washer, and check it side-to-side and front-to-back.
Adjust the legs until the washer is level.
Turn the legs by hand, or use a wrench if the legs won’t move by hand on your model.

Recalibrate the control

Plug the washer in, and make sure all control lights are off and the tub is empty.
Rotate the cycle knob counterclockwise once, clockwise three times, counterclockwise once, then clockwise once.
Confirm all lights begin flashing, then rotate the knob clockwise four times.
Confirm only the rinse light is green, then press Start to run recalibration.
Caution: Don’t calibrate with clothes in the washer.

Test the suspension rods

Open the lid, and press down hard on the washer tub area from the top.
Treat the rods as good if the tub snaps back into place without bouncing.
Treat the rods as bad if the tub bounces up and down or side-to-side after you press it.
Push the tub toward the sides to check for side-to-side bouncing as well.

Open the top panel

Tape the lid closed with masking tape.
Use a screwdriver to remove the three screws on the rear of the washer top panel.
Remove the left screw, the right screw, and the screw holding the wire trunk harness cover slightly left of center.
Pull the top toward you from the front, lift it up, then hinge it rearward onto the two metal tabs.

Remove the suspension rods

Use pliers or a slip-jaw wrench under the top panel to push a suspension rod up, and unhook it from the retention cap.
Remove rods in pairs from opposite corners, and don’t remove more than two at once.
Close and latch the lid, then tilt the washer back or to the side to pull the rods out from underneath if your model has no tub slots.
Reach up from underneath to grab a rod if it doesn’t drop out of the housing when tilted.

Refurbish the suspension-rod damping

Separate the rod’s top cap by wedging a small flathead screwdriver or a dental pick between the cap halves.
Inspect the foam insert, and treat it as bad if it slides too easily on the rod.
Press the screwdriver into the foam, and compress the spring with your fingers to help pull the foam out.
Replace the foam with a properly sized piece cut from a foam mat if the original foam is worn.
Apply damping grease to the foam insert, the rod above and below the insert, and the grease reservoir under the cap.
Note: Many third-party suspension rods fail quickly because they don’t have enough damping grease or the right foam insert.

Grease the suspension rod cups

Apply a small amount of damping grease to the plastic cap and cup set in the washer housing if the caps are in good shape.
Wipe off excess grease so it doesn’t sling onto clothes during use.

Reinstall the suspension rods

Tilt the washer backward, and set each rod back into position so it stays seated when you lower the washer.
Lower the washer to the floor, open the top panel, and pull each rod up into the cup and cap set.
Use pliers to pull the rod hook up through the cap, or use another rod hook as a pull tool if you’re working in pairs.
Angle the hook about 90° so it seats and can’t fall back out of the cap.

Recalibrate after suspension work

Recalibrate the washer again with no clothes in the tub after repairing or replacing suspension rods.
Note: The control can “learn” bad suspension behavior, so recalibration helps reset spin performance.

Test for hub or tub wear

Rotate the inner basket by hand, and watch for left-to-right wobble relative to the outer tub.
Push the inner basket sideways, and check for play between the inner basket and outer tub.
Treat any noticeable play as likely hub wear, tub bushing wear, or both.

Remove the washplate or agitator

Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry up the cap in the center of the washplate.
Use a socket wrench with a 7/16 socket to remove the center bolt by turning it counterclockwise.
Hold the washplate or tub to keep it from turning while you loosen the bolt.
Lift the washplate off by hand, use pliers, or use a hook tool if it’s stuck.

Free a stuck washplate with hot soak and manual agitation

Fill the tub above the washplate with hot water using a disconnected water supply hose.
Add a descaler such as CLR, citric acid, or a washing machine cleaner, then soak for one to two hours.
Enter diagnostics, and stop on the mode just before calibrate where two lights show cycle complete and final spin.
Press Start to enter forced manual mode, press Start again to lock the lid, turn the dial counterclockwise once until wash and rinse lights are on, then press Start.
Remove the washplate bolt before running manual agitation, and run agitation up to five minutes to work the washplate loose.
Caution: When agitation stops, don’t press Start again or the washer may restart and pump the soak water out.
Re-enter diagnostics and repeat agitation as needed, or pause around four minutes and restart while still in manual mode to keep agitating.

Use a last resort method for a seized washplate

WARNING: Only use this method if other washplate removal attempts fail, because it can damage parts and can be hazardous.
Remove the gearcase from underneath by removing the four or six 10 mm screws holding it to the washer.
Install a taller, durable replacement transmission bolt, and use a hammer with sockets and extensions to drive the gearcase out from top to bottom.
Consider professional service if you’re not comfortable working under a heavy appliance or striking parts with a hammer.

Remove and inspect the hub

Put towels around the work area inside the tub to catch screws so they can’t fall into the machine.
Pry the u-clip out with a small flathead screwdriver, or use a larger flathead if it’s heavily rusted.
Remove the six long hub screws, loosening them by hand first and finishing with a drill on low torque if needed.
Caution: Work carefully to avoid stripping rusted screws.
Lift the hub out, inspect the hub teeth and the gearcase splines, and clean rusty splines with CLR and a wire brush.

Inspect the tub cover and balance ring

Release the tub cover by wedging a small plastic screwdriver under the edge and unlatching the plastic fingers around the perimeter.
Work around the cover and release about eight retainers, and expect it to get easier after the first two or three clips.
Replace the tub cover if it’s chewed up from shaking damage.
Inspect the balance ring for cracks, and spin the basket by hand to confirm you can hear water sloshing inside the ring.
Replace the balance ring if you don’t hear water sloshing or if the ring is damaged.

Replace the tub bushing sleeve or install shims

Lift the inner tub straight up and out once the hub and tub cover are removed.
Drive the worn tub bushing sleeve out from the back using a 5/16 deep well socket and a mini sledge.
Align the upgraded replacement sleeve with the tub spokes, press it in, then tap it flush using a 2x4 or about 1.5 inch-wide PVC pipe.
Verify the sleeve sits flush, and tap it down if it popped up while reinstalling the tub.
Install a gearcase shim instead if you don’t want to knock the sleeve out, using the thinnest shim that fits and tapping it into place.
Note: The shims discussed here work with the original tub bushing, and aren’t compatible with the upgraded replacement sleeve.
Reinstall the tub by lifting it in, rotating it, and pressing it firmly down until you can see the top and bottom rows of gearcase splines.

Install a metal hub and reassemble the tub

Install the drive block onto the gearcase shaft, and tap lightly with a socket if needed but don’t force it down too far.
Set the flat metal hub in place so it fits between the hub and tub ridges.
Install the hub screws, tightening them slowly in a crisscross pattern so the tub rises evenly to meet the hub.
Use a drill on very low torque to run screws partway, then finish tightening by hand to avoid stripping.
Install the lock washer with the lip side facing down toward the hub, and apply a small amount of threadlocker to the inner threads.
Tighten the lock washer with a TB123 spanner wrench, and tap it about a quarter turn with a hammer to fully lock it.
Caution: Don’t overtighten the lock washer, because excessive rotation can strip the hub.

Reinstall the washplate and run the final calibration

Reinstall the washplate, apply threadlocker to the washplate bolt, and tighten the bolt with a 7/16 socket.
Reinstall the tub cover by aligning the fingers and pressing it down until all clips latch.
Lower the top panel by aligning it, pulling forward, pressing down, then pressing back until it locks.
Reinstall the three rear screws that secure the top panel and wire harness cover.
Recalibrate the washer again with no clothes in the tub.
Wait 24 hours for the threadlocker to fully cure before washing clothes.

If the washer still shakes after leveling, calibration, suspension-rod damping service, and hub or tub support repairs, recheck for any remaining basket play by rocking and spinning the inner basket by hand. Addressing both damping and basket play typically provides the most long-lasting improvement in spin balance. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Fix a Whirlpool Washing Machine That Shakes» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →