How to Stop Excessive Shaking in a Maytag Top Load Washing Machine

MaytagMaytag Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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If your Maytag top-load washer bangs around or bounces heavily during spin, worn suspension rod dampeners are a common cause. This guide shows how to confirm the suspension rods are the problem, safely access the suspension system, inspect the suspension rod cups, and reinforce the rod dampeners using a low-cost safety pin or straight pin trick.

🧰 Tools

1/4" Nut Driver
Putty Knife
Thin flathead screwdriver
Precision Needle-nose Pliers
Masking Tape
Nitrile Gloves

⚙️ Parts

Safety pins or straight pins

ШагиSteps

Confirm the suspension rods are the problem

Open the lid, press down on the agitator or wash plate, and watch how the basket reacts.
If the basket bounces around in multiple directions and doesn’t snap back up right away, the suspension rods are worn.
If the basket doesn’t do this bounce test, don’t use this pin hack because another issue is more likely.
Other causes can include a bad basket, a bad hub, or another mechanical problem.

Prepare the washer safely

Move the washer to an open area where you can lift the top and tilt the washer safely.
Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.
WARNING: Don’t work on a washer that’s still plugged in because you can get shocked or the machine can start unexpectedly.
Caution: The washer is heavy, so get help if needed and keep fingers clear of pinch points when tilting it.

Remove the rear screws

Use a 1/4" nut driver to remove the three screws on the back of the washer.
Remove the metal plate held by the middle screw, and save the plate and screws for reassembly.

Lift and support the washer top

Pull the washer top toward the front, lift it slightly, and push it toward the back to release it.
Pivot the washer top up and back, and rest it against a wall if possible.
Use masking tape to secure the lid to the washer top so the lid can’t fall and slam into the console area.
Two small metal fingers at the rear of the unit slot into the top and help hold it while it’s pivoted up.

Inspect the suspension rod cups

Locate the four suspension rods, one in each corner of the washer.
Inspect the cup system at each rod, and check for cracks or damage.
If a cup is cracked or damaged, replace the suspension rods because the cups aren’t serviced separately.

Release one suspension rod from the top

Put on rubber gloves to improve grip on the suspension rod.
Reach into the washer chassis, grip a suspension rod, and pull it straight up.
Pull the plastic cup off the rod’s hook while holding the rod up.
Lower the rod slowly and let it drop down to the floor inside the washer cabinet.
Caution: Only remove one rod at a time because the tub is heavy and can shift when multiple rods are disconnected.
Some models have corner slots that let you slide the rod out more easily, but others require removal from underneath.

Remove the rod from underneath

Lower the lid, and pivot the washer top back into place if you want it secured while you move the washer.
Tilt the washer backward so you can access the underside safely.
Find the dropped rod in the same corner, and work it down and out through the hole in the molded plastic retention area.
Caution: Keep the washer stable while it’s tilted, and don’t put hands where the tub or cabinet can pinch you.

Identify the worn dampener area and choose pins

Check the suspension rod assembly and focus on the upper collar area that is meant to dampen vibration.
Confirm the issue is play in the collar system rather than the spring itself being easy to compress.
Choose a thicker safety pin or a straight pin because thin safety pins may be too small to work well.
Some people refill this area with grease, but this procedure reinforces the collar using pins.

Split the collar and prep a safety pin if used

If you’re using a safety pin, straighten it and remove the latch-housing end so the pin is easier to insert into the collar.
Use a thin flathead screwdriver or a putty knife to separate the collar into two pieces.
Work the putty knife around the collar until it pops apart into the top piece and the bottom piece.
Set aside the bottom piece and keep the top collar piece ready for pin insertion.
Caution: Pins are sharp, so keep hands behind the point and work slowly.

Insert and bend the pin to tighten the collar

Aim the pin toward the top of the collar and pull the collar down onto the pin instead of pushing the pin into the collar.
Work the pin down into the plastic collar with the pin pressed against the metal rod as closely as possible.
Push the pin through as far as it will go once you can see it piercing through the collar.
Use needle-nose pliers to turn the pin back against the top of the collar.
Use a putty knife to help bend the pin if it’s too tight to grab near the rod with pliers.
Bend the lower part of the pin down into a U-shape under the collar so it can’t slip off.

Reinstall the suspension rod and set its position

Tilt the washer back and insert the rod up through the correct hole under the tub.
Hold the rod in place using the top of the small collar while you tilt the washer back down.
Open the top, pull the rod up into the metal housing, and reinstall the plastic retainer cup onto the rod hook.
Position the rod at about the 3 o’clock or 9 o’clock orientation against the slot where it was inserted.
Caution: If the rod isn’t oriented correctly, the washer can lean to one side.

Repeat for the remaining three rods

Repeat the same removal, pin installation, and reinstallation process for the remaining three suspension rods.
Expect the collar separation to take a few tries on some rods.
Route the back-right rod carefully because the pressure hose and wire bundle can make that corner harder to work in.
Bend each pin at the top and bottom so it can’t fall out as the collar slides.

Reassemble and test for improved stability

Lower the top, remove the masking tape, and reinstall the three rear screws and the metal plate.
Move the washer back into position, plug it in, and place the drain hose back into the standpipe.
Run a spin test and watch for improvement in how quickly the tub levels out and stops banging.
Some banging at the beginning of spin can happen, but it should settle down quickly if the rods are behaving normally.
Level the washer if needed, and consider running a calibration routine before judging the final results.
If shaking is still severe after this and the rods truly fail the bounce test, replace the suspension rods with manufacturer parts matched to the model.

This pin reinforcement is meant to tighten up a loose suspension rod collar that no longer dampens vibration. If the suspension rod cups are cracked, the tub doesn’t fail the bounce test, or the washer still shakes violently after leveling and calibration, stop and diagnose other causes or replace the suspension rods. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Stop Excessive Shaking in a Maytag Top Load Washing Machine» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →