How to Troubleshoot and Test a Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element

WhirlpoolWhirlpool DryerModerate⏱ 45 minutes - 2 hours

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If a Whirlpool dryer runs but doesn’t heat, a failed heating element (often part number 279838) is a common cause. This guide shows how to safely access the heater area, inspect for burnt wires and broken coils, test the element and thermostat with a multimeter, interpret the readings, and repair a damaged wire connection if needed.

🧰 Tools

1/4 inch nut driver
Multimeter
Large Needle Nose Pliers
Work Gloves

⚙️ Parts

Heating Element
thermostat
Heavy gauge splicing connector
Wire Nut

ШагиSteps

Unplug the dryer and set up safely

Unplug the dryer cord to remove power before opening the cabinet.
WARNING: A dryer uses high voltage, and live testing can cause serious injury or death.
Caution: Sheet-metal edges inside the dryer can be sharp, so wear cut-resistant gloves if you have them.

Remove the rear panel

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the rear panel screws.
Remove eight to 10 screws, depending on whether the dryer has a steam port.
Remove the plastic cap if the steam port assembly is present.
Keep the screws in a container so they don’t get lost.

Locate the heating element and thermostat

Look on the right side of the dryer for the heating system components.
Identify the high-limit thermal fuse or thermal cutoff in the heating system area.
Locate the thermostat and the heating element assembly near the bottom of the heater housing.
The thermostat mounting style can vary by model.

Isolate the element before testing

Pull off one spade connector from the heating element to prevent false meter readings.
Use pliers to remove the spade connector if it’s too tight to pull by hand.
Caution: Pull on the connector, not the wire, to avoid breaking the wire at the crimp.

Inspect connectors for burn damage

Inspect each wire connector for burnt marks, discoloration, or melted areas.
If a connector looks burnt, it can stop heating, and the connector and wire may both be damaged.

Repair a burnt wire connection

Cut away any blackened or damaged section of the wire.
Use a heavy-gauge splicing connector and a wire nut to reconnect the wire securely.
Caution: A poor splice can overheat and burn again, so make the connection tight and fully insulated.

Test the heating element resistance

Set the multimeter to resistance (ohms) or continuity mode.
Touch one meter lead to one heating element terminal and the other lead to the other terminal.
A good heating element typically measures about 9 to 10 Ω.
If the reading is wildly higher or the meter shows no reading, the element is likely bad.

Test the thermostat and element together

Touch one meter lead to a top thermostat terminal and the other lead to the remaining element terminal.
This checks the thermostat and the heating element in the same measurement.

Check whether the element is grounded

Set the multimeter to continuity mode.
Touch one lead to a heating element spade terminal and tap the other lead on the element casing.
WARNING: If the meter beeps or shows a measurement, the heater is grounded to the cabinet and is dangerous.
Stop using the dryer until the grounded element is corrected, because it can cause damage and major issues.

Remove the heating element from its housing

Remove the remaining connectors from the thermostat and the heating element housing.
Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two screws holding the heating element, with one screw on each side.
Pivot the heating element toward you, pivot it down, and slide it out of the housing.
Caution: A burnt connector can make terminals stick, and forcing them can break the thermostat connection.

Inspect the element coil and clean the housing

Check the heater housing for charred dust and clean it before reinstalling a new or used element.
Inspect the entire coiled heating wire for breaks or places where the coil is physically separated.
Any broken or disconnected coil is a clear sign the heating element needs replacement.

Reinstall the thermostat if it was removed

Reinstall the thermostat using the mounting style used by the dryer model.
Use needle-nose pliers to slot the metal finger into the thermostat housing if your dryer uses a metal finger mount.
Make sure the welded connector is firmly slotted into the left-sided element connector for a solid connection.
Some models use screws instead of the metal finger mount.

Reinstall the heating element canister

Hook the heater canister into place using the two metal protrusions at the top as guides.
Insert the canister at a slight angle, then press up, wiggle, and rock it until it seats fully.
Align the screw holes before tightening, or the canister won’t install correctly.
Start the screws loosely so the canister can move back and forth for alignment, then tighten them.

Reconnect wires and test-run the dryer

Reconnect all spade terminals to the correct thermostat and element terminals.
Reinstall the rear panel, plug the dryer back in, and run a cycle to confirm heating.
If a new element was installed, expect a strange odor for a 15 to 30 minute burn-in period.
Run the dryer until the odor goes away before drying clothes.

If the element reads 9 to 10 ohms and isn’t grounded, focus on burnt connectors, loose terminals, and other heat-system components. If the element is open, badly out of range, visibly broken, or grounded to the casing, replace it and don’t use the dryer until the issue is fixed. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot and Test a Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →