How to Troubleshoot a Criterion Washing Machine That Won't Drain Water

Criterion Washing MachineModerate⏱ 45 minutes - 2 hours

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If your Criterion top-load washer won’t drain, it’s often caused by a drain hose setup problem, a blockage in the pump or hoses, a failed drain pump, or a wiring/control issue. This guide walks you through the common fail points, how to safely access the drain pump from the bottom, how to check for obstructions, and how to test the pump and its wiring with a multimeter. Some models show an E2 code for a drain pump problem, but the washer can still have a drain issue without that code. This guide also applies to other similar top load Midea, Insignia, or Frigidaire washing machines.

🧰 Tools

Phillips Screwdriver
10 mm Nut Driver
Slip joint pliers
Multimeter
Flashlight
Shop towel
Tape
Cable ties

⚙️ Parts

Drain pump

ШагиSteps

Prepare safely for a no-drain check

Unplug the washer from the wall outlet before any inspection or disassembly.
Turn off the water supply valves to reduce the chance of leaks while moving the washer.
WARNING: Washers are heavy, so get help when tipping or moving the unit to prevent injury or crushing hazards.
Caution: Expect water to spill during hose or pump work, so keep towels and a shallow pan nearby.
Some models show an E2 code for a drain pump problem, but the washer can still have a drain issue without that code.

Verify the drain hose height to prevent siphoning

Check that the drain hose outlet is positioned about 100 cm (39 inches) up from the floor.
Set the hose height to roughly the same level as the rear of the washer so it drains properly.
Adjust the hose if it’s much higher or lower than the back of the washer, because either condition can cause siphoning and poor draining.
A simple hose-height diagram is: floor → measure up 100 cm → place the hose outlet near that height at the standpipe or drain.

Try to drain water by lowering the drain hose

Lower the drain hose to near floor level to siphon as much water out of the tub as possible.
Watch for steady flow from the drain hose, which indicates the hose path is at least partially open.
If water won’t siphon out at floor level, treat it as a likely obstruction in the drain pump or hoses and continue with pump access.
Caution: Don’t tip the washer with a full tub if you can avoid it, because water can spill and make the washer unstable.

Check for a pump cleanout if your model has one

Look for a pump cleanout at the bottom rear of the washer if your model includes one.
Unscrew the cleanout and check for blockages if it’s present.
Not every model includes a rear-bottom cleanout, so continue to bottom access if you don’t see one.

Tilt the washer to access the bottom

Tape the lid closed, or hold it securely, so it can’t flip open while the washer is tipped.
Tilt the washer onto its front or onto its side to access the underside.
Support the washer so it can’t fall, slip, or roll while you work underneath it.

Locate the drain pump and remove the pump housing screws

Find the drain pump by locating the large hose connected to it on the underside of the washer.
Place a towel under the pump area to catch water that may spill when hoses are removed.
Use a Phillips screwdriver or a 10 mm nut driver to remove the three screws holding the pump housing area in place.

Remove the tub hose and clear drain path obstructions

Use slip-joint pliers to loosen the clamp and remove the tub hose from the pump.
Inspect for obstructions inside the tub outlet and inside the tub hose you removed.
Inspect the hose path from the pump outlet to the external drain hose for blockages.
Use a flashlight to look inside hoses and ports if the tub didn’t siphon earlier.
Remove any debris you find, because clearing a blockage may restore normal draining without replacing parts.

Access the drain pump wiring in the wire bag

Locate the wire bag near the rear of the washer where many harnesses bundle together and route to the control board.
Remove the screws from the back of the washer to access the wire bag more easily if needed.
Trace the drain pump wire from the pump into the wire cluster, because wire colors can be hard to distinguish and may vary by model.
Remove any cable ties required to free the pump wire, including any surface-mounted cable tie holding it in place.
Unwrap any cotton wrap around the wire cluster slowly and plan to tape it back up during reassembly.
Caution: Pull on connectors, not wires, because damaged wires can create new faults.
Reminder: Re-tie and re-secure the harnesses after testing so they don’t move and chafe during operation.

Test the drain pump motor winding with a multimeter

Set a multimeter to resistance (ohms).
Press the multimeter probes into the drain pump wire harness terminals to measure the pump’s resistance.
Replace the pump if the reading is far from 16–17 Ω, using about a 20% margin as a practical pass-fail range.
A resistance reading in range doesn’t guarantee the pump can move water if the impeller is damaged.

Inspect the pump impeller for physical damage

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three or four screws holding the pump housing to the pump motor.
Separate the pump housing from the pump motor to access the impeller.
Move the impeller paddles by hand and feel for three or four firm segments that resist and spring as the internal magnets pass.
Replace the pump if the impeller feels very loose, slips, or seems stripped, because the pump won’t move water reliably.

Reinstall or replace the pump and secure the wiring

Route the drain pump wiring back through the wire cluster the same way it was originally installed.
Re-tie the harnesses and reassemble the wire bag so the wires can’t jostle around during operation.
Mount the wire bag back onto the side of the machine with its metal wire tie.
Reattach the tub hose to the pump and secure it with its clamp.
Reinstall the three screws that secure the pump housing to the drum area.
Secure any pump wires with cable ties as needed so they can’t rub on moving parts.

Test the drain pump wiring to the control board if draining still fails

Access the control board wiring from the back of the washer, or while the washer is laid on its front as shown during bottom access.
Disconnect the drain pump wiring at the control board connector labeled CN5.
Test for continuity or resistance between pin 3 and pin 6 on the wires going to the pump.
If you have continuity, suspect a failed control board that isn’t triggering the drain pump.
If you don’t have continuity, suspect broken or damaged wiring between the control board and pump, often within the wire bag area.
Caution: Keep track of connector locations and routing so wires don’t get pinched during reassembly.

Return the washer to position and verify draining

Set the washer upright and remove any tape securing the lid.
Restore the drain hose to the correct height of about 100 cm (39 inches) from the floor.
Plug the washer in and run a drain or spin cycle to confirm the tub empties normally.
Check underneath and behind the washer for leaks around the pump and hose connections.

If the washer still won’t drain after clearing the hose and pump path, recheck the wiring bundle, pump resistance, and control board continuity before replacing major parts. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot a Criterion Washing Machine That Won't Drain Water» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →