How to Troubleshoot a Maytag Centennial Washer That Won't Spin

MaytagMaytag Washing MachineModerate⏱ 45 minutes - 2 hours

Инструкция на английском (оригинал iFixit). Непонятные термины — в разделе «Основы → Словарь».

If a Maytag Centennial top-loading washer fills and washes but won’t spin, the problem is usually a mechanical drive part, the lid lock (lid switch), or the shift system that changes between agitate and spin. This guide shows how to pull the service sheet, read spin-related error codes, run a manual spin test, inspect the hub (washplate hub), and check common underneath components like the splutch and belt, motor, shift actuator (shifter), gearcase, and motor capacitor.

🧰 Tools

Socket Wrench
1/4" Nut Driver
5/16" Nut Driver
Multimeter
Masking Tape
Torx Screwdriver

⚙️ Parts

Washplate hub
Lid lock assembly
Shift actuator
Drive Belt
Splutch kit
Drive motor
Motor capacitor
Gearcase
Drain pump

ШагиSteps

Prepare safely for troubleshooting

Unplug the washer before removing panels, reaching inside, or tipping it back.
Turn off the water supply valves if you’ll be moving the washer, and keep towels handy for drips.
Get help when moving or tipping the washer, since it’s heavy and can tip unexpectedly.

Access the service sheet under the top

Move the washer so you can access the rear of the unit.
Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the three screws securing the top to the chassis, and remove the metal harness plate.
Move the washer back into position, and place a support behind it so the top can rest safely when opened.
Pull the top toward the front, lift it up, and push it back to unhook it from the retaining tabs and pivot it upward onto its hooks.
Keep the lid from falling backward into the console by holding it or securing it with tape.
Push the tub toward the back and reach in to pull the service sheet from the hidden compartment.
Lower the top back into place when you’re done referencing the service sheet.

Enter diagnostics and open the error code menu

Plug the washer in and make sure no indicator lights or modes are lit on the console.
Turn the cycle selector knob counterclockwise until it points straight up.
Turn the knob three clicks clockwise, one click counterclockwise, and one click clockwise to enter diagnostics.
Confirm diagnostics mode by checking that all the lights flash.
Turn the knob one click clockwise, press Start, and confirm the lights flash to show you are in error code mode.
Turn the knob one click clockwise to start the flash-code sequence.

Interpret and clear spin-related error codes

Watch which green lights illuminate during the flash sequence, and use the service sheet to translate the pattern into an error code.
Treat the first green light as the letter selector, and treat any other illuminated lights as values you add together for the number.
If the first green light is on, you are reading an F-code, and the other lights add up to the number.
If the first green light is off but other lights are on, you are reading an E-code, and the other lights add up to the number.
Focus on these common no-spin codes: F0E5, F5E1/E2/E3, F7E1/E5, F7E6, and F7E7.
Turn the knob clockwise four times to view additional stored codes, and hold Start when all lights flash in order to clear the codes.
If the washer won’t drain and won’t spin, the drain pump can be the real cause instead of a spin-system failure.

Check the washplate hub for stripping

Open the lid and make sure the tub is empty, and leave the washer turned off for this check.
Spin the washplate at the bottom of the tub by hand.
Replace the washplate hub if the washplate spins by itself without moving the tub and basket with it.
Plan to remove the washplate with a socket wrench, since a stripped hub requires the plate to come off for repair.
A stripped hub can let the machine spin the washplate to move clothes outward, but fail to spin the wash basket to extract water.

Remove the lid striker for lid lock testing

Use a Torx driver to remove the lid striker from the lid.
Keep hands clear of moving parts during any live test, since running the washer with the lid lock defeated is dangerous.
Insert the striker into the lid lock so the washer can lock and attempt spin while you can observe the basket.

Run the manual low-spin test and interpret the results

Reset the control knob to 12 o’clock and enter diagnostics using the same knob sequence used for error codes.
Turn the knob counterclockwise three clicks until the Spin and Done lights are on, and press Start to enter the manual component test mode.
Press Start and confirm the lid lock turns on, since a lid lock that won’t engage usually needs replacement.
Turn the dial nine clicks to select the low spin test shown in the service sheet, since the lid lock must be engaged for spin to run.
Lift the lid and press Start to command a manual spin attempt, and keep hands and belongings away from the tub while it attempts to run.
Suspect a failed shift actuator if you don’t hear any clicking as the washer attempts to shift into spin.
Suspect the motor, belt and splutch system, or capacitor if you hear clicking but the basket won’t spin, and suspect the capacitor if it spins slowly or takes a long time to speed up.
Hold Start for three seconds to exit diagnostics.

Secure the top and tip the washer for underside access

Lock the top down by pulling it toward the front, pushing it down, and pushing it back into the retaining tabs.
Tape the lid shut with masking tape to keep it from opening while the washer is tilted.
Lean the washer back about 45 degrees to work underneath, or lay it fully on its back if you need maximum visibility.
Support the washer securely so it can’t fall forward while you’re working under it.

Remove the lower cover and check for gearcase oil leaks

Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to remove the screws securing the lower cover, and remove the cover.
Look for green or blackened transmission oil before and after removing the cover.
Plan on replacing the gearcase if you find gearcase oil leakage, since oil loss can cause internal slipping and prevent proper spin.
Treat gearcase failure as less common than actuator, belt, or splutch problems.

Identify the main spin system components underneath

Locate the shift actuator, the drive motor, the belt, the splutch assembly, and the motor capacitor under the washer.
Treat the shift actuator as a high-likelihood failure point on this washer style.
Locate the drain pump and consider it if the washer also has a drain problem.

Inspect the splutch and belt for slipping or damage

Spin the splutch pulley by hand and check for a loose retention nut or excessive play in the splutch.
Inspect the belt for damage or for slipping off the pulleys, since a bad or missing belt can stop spin and agitate.
Tighten the splutch nut if it’s loose, and replace the belt or splutch assembly if either is damaged.
Remove the belt by pulling it away from the washer while rotating the splutch pulley.
Check splutch play again with the belt off, and tighten the nut or replace the splutch if play is still excessive.

Test the drive motor with a multimeter

Set a multimeter to ohms resistance and test the motor while it is mounted, if the connector is accessible.
Measure resistance between the second and fourth motor wires, which are typically white and red, and look for about 3–5 Ω.
Measure resistance between the third and fourth motor wires, which are typically yellow and red, and look for about 6–9 Ω.
Replace the motor if readings are far outside these ranges, and use the service sheet for model-to-model variations.

Test the shift actuator electrically and check compatibility

Inspect the shift actuator housing for dirt or contaminants, since that can indicate actuator failure.
Set a multimeter to ohms resistance and test the fifth and sixth pins on the shift actuator connector.
Look for a resistance value of about 2,000–3,500 Ω, and replace the actuator if it reads far outside that range.
Don’t assume maroon and black actuators are interchangeable, since some harness connectors won’t match between styles.

Inspect and test the motor capacitor

Inspect the capacitor for obvious physical damage or warping, since visible deformation often indicates failure.
Discharge the capacitor by touching both metal terminals with a screwdriver that has a plastic insulated handle.
Expect a possible spark or pop when discharging the capacitor, and keep fingers on insulated surfaces only.
Set a multimeter to ohms resistance and test across the capacitor terminals, since resistance typically rises until it returns to OL.
Test with both lead orientations to confirm the result when using the basic ohms method.
Use a meter with a dedicated capacitance function if available, since the ohms method can be inaccurate.

Recalibrate the washer after replacing any part

Recalibrate the washer after any component replacement, including a hub, lid lock, shift actuator, or control board.
With the washer plugged in and idle, enter diagnostics using the knob sequence of three clicks right, one click left, and one click right.
Turn the knob four clicks to the right until the Rinse indicator is lit, and press Start to begin recalibration.
Let the recalibration run for about 3–4 minutes while lights flash sequentially, since the washer will operate the pump, lid lock, and drive system.

Confirm replacement parts match your exact washer

Confirm any replacement part matches your washer model before buying, since similar-looking machines can use different parts.
Use the service sheet and the washer’s model information to verify compatibility.

Clear stored error codes, run the manual low-spin test, and inspect the hub, lid lock, actuator, belt, and splutch before suspecting major parts like the motor or gearcase. Recalibrate the washer after installing any part, and consider professional service if you can’t find a clear fault after completing these checks. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot a Maytag Centennial Washer That Won't Spin» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →