How to Troubleshoot a Shaking or Bouncing Maytag Washing Machine

MaytagMaytag Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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If your Maytag top-load washing machine shakes, bounces, bangs, or won’t spin out clothes well, the cause is often an out-of-level cabinet, worn suspension rods, a damaged tub cover or balance ring, or a worn hub and spline system that lets the inner basket wobble. This guide walks through the common checks and the repair steps for each issue, including recalibrating the washer after the fix.

🧰 Tools

Bubble Level
Adjustable Wrench
Phillips Screwdriver
6-in-1 Screwdriver
Impact Driver
Locking Pliers
Work Gloves
7/16" Socket
Shop Towel
Slip Joint Pliers

⚙️ Parts

Suspension rod kit
Tub cover with balance ring
Wash plate
Gearcase hub
Tub shim kit
Thread Locker

ШагиSteps

Prepare for safe troubleshooting

Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.
Turn off the hot and cold water supply valves.
Empty the washer of clothes and any loose objects before testing or calibrating.
Move the washer where you can access the back, and get help if you need to tip the machine.
Wear gloves and long sleeves when reaching inside the cabinet to handle suspension rods.
Use eye protection if you use descaling or rust-removal chemicals, and don’t mix chemicals together.

Check and adjust cabinet leveling

Place a bubble level on the washer and check front-to-back and side-to-side level.
Rock the washer by hand at each corner, and check for any wobble or play.
Adjust the leveling feet until the washer sits solidly on the floor and reads level.
Use an adjustable wrench if your model uses screw-type feet, and adjust each corner until it can’t be rocked by hand.
Note that leveling foot designs vary by model, but the goal is always a stable, level cabinet.

Test the suspension rods

Open the lid and push the basket straight down as hard as you can, then let it snap back up.
Push the basket side-to-side and release it so it returns to center.
Replace the suspension rods if the basket bounces repeatedly before returning to center.
If the basket snaps back to center immediately with little to no bounce, the suspension rods are likely OK.
Some dampening systems can be restored with heavy lubrication, but rod replacement is the usual fix when bouncing is excessive.

Open the top to access the suspension rods

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws from the back of the top panel area.
Remove the left and right screws, then remove the screw securing the rear wire cover.
Position the washer near a wall so the top can pivot back and rest against the wall.
Tape the lid shut to the top panel, and keep the tape above the seam between the top and the chassis.
Pull the top panel forward, lift up, and push it rearward to unhook it from the chassis.
Pivot the top panel up and back, and rest it in the two small metal tab slots on the cabinet sides.
Make sure the top is securely sitting in both slots so it can’t slip while you work.

Replace the suspension rods

Reach into a corner, pull up on a suspension rod, and dislodge it from the plastic cup assembly.
Use locking pliers or slip-joint pliers for extra grip if gloves don’t hold the rod securely.
Release the cup from the shepherd’s hook on the rod, and remove the rod from the machine.
Pull the rod down and out through the bottom tub slot if your model has one, or tip the washer and remove the rod from underneath if it doesn’t.
Install each new rod in the reverse path, and use an old rod as a hook to pull the new rod up into the cap area.
Rotate the cap 90 degrees to seat it properly once the rod is pulled into position.
Replace all four suspension rods at the same time because they wear similarly.

Inspect the tub cover and balance ring

Inspect the tub cover and balance ring area for cracks or holes that could leak water out of the ring.
Look for evidence of water leaking into the tub from the ring, which can cause shaking during spin.
Press in the tabs around the cover edge to remove the cover if you need a closer view of the balance ring.
This failure is rare, but it’s worth checking while the top is open.

Reinstall and secure the top panel

Pivot the top panel forward and down to the front of the washer.
Make sure the top panel slides off the side metal tabs and is no longer sitting in their slots.
Align the top panel with the cabinet sides, then pull it forward, push down, and push rearward to lock it in place.
Check that the top is snug and can’t move left or right, and that it’s flush with the rear of the machine.
Reinstall the rear wire cover and the three rear screws.

Check for hub and spline wear

Open the lid and spin the basket as hard as you can by hand.
Watch for the inner tub moving significantly against the outer plastic tub.
Plan to replace the hub if there is noticeable play between the inner tub and the outer tub.
There should be very minimal movement between the tubs, or they can vibrate against each other during high-speed spin.

Remove the wash plate for inspection

Try to rotate the wash plate independently of the basket and check for strong resistance.
Replace the wash plate if it spins too freely and too easily.
Use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the center cap using the small slot under the cap edge.
Use a 7/16 inch socket wrench to turn the bolt counterclockwise and remove it.
Hold the tub with one hand while loosening the bolt if it’s tight.
Pull up on the wash plate’s plastic ring with slip-joint pliers or locking pliers to remove the wash plate.
A deep socket and an impact driver can make bolt removal easier on stubborn units.

Free a stuck wash plate with hot water and agitation

Add a rust-removal or descaling agent, such as citric acid or a calcium-lime-rust remover, to break down buildup under the wash plate.
Fill the tub with hot water until it rises above the center opening where the cap and bolt were removed.
Keep the center cap and bolt removed while filling so the mixture can reach the seized area.
Use the washer’s manual test mode to fill with hot water without draining, or fill through the hose at the wall valve if needed.
Lock the lid and run an agitation function in manual test mode to help work the mixture under the plate.
Re-enter manual test mode as needed because it can time out after about five minutes.
Pause, unlock the lid, and retry pulling the wash plate off, repeating the fill and agitate process until it releases.
Drain the dirty water after the plate comes off by running a normal drain cycle, and avoid accidentally draining the mixture too early.

Remove the old hub

Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the retaining clip from the hub if your model uses a clip style.
Use the correct hub style for your model because some Maytag variants use a different hub design without a retaining clip.
Place a towel inside the drum to catch screws so they don’t fall into the tub slots.
Use a Phillips screwdriver or drill to remove the six screws securing the hub.
Switch to a hand screwdriver if a screw is too tight for a drill to remove cleanly.
Gently pry up the hub with a flathead screwdriver, then lift it off the tub.
Inspect the hub splines for severe wear because worn splines can let the tub and hub rub and create imbalance.

Clean the gearcase splines and install a shim

Wipe off the area and clean the gearcase splines so you can clearly inspect their condition.
Use a calcium-lime-rust remover and a stiff plastic-bristled brush to remove rust and buildup.
Install a shim ring on the gearcase splines if the inner tub had a large amount of play in the earlier spin test.
Choose the thickest shim wall size that fits into the tub opening on your machine.
Press the shim down with the flat side up, working it around until it seats over the spline, using the shim cut to expand it as needed.
Tap the shim down with a socket or other flat tool and a small hammer until it locks into position.

Install and secure a metal hub

Align the metal hub’s underside tab with the drive block fingers before lowering it into place.
Tap the drive block down with a hammer and a socket as needed until it locks into its notches.
Align the hub ridges so they fit between the plastic ridges on the tub, matching the six tub slots to the six hub slots.
Accept a small gap if needed, but make sure the hub is seated between the tub grooves and not riding on top of them.
Place a towel in the drum again, start all six hub screws by hand, and tighten them gradually on opposite sides.
Thread the top nut on by hand, then use a spanner nut wrench to tighten it further.
Tap the spanner nut about a half turn with a hammer and stop before a full turn so you don’t snap the hub tang.

Reinstall the wash plate and secure the bolt

Lower the wash plate back into place, aligning the splines so it seats fully.
Apply blue thread locker to the wash plate bolt threads before installing the bolt.
Use a 7/16 inch socket wrench to tighten the wash plate bolt, then press the center cap back into place.
Let the thread locker cure for about 24 hours, depending on the product, before using the washer.

Recalibrate the washer

Recalibrate the washer after leveling or replacing suspension rods, a hub, or a wash plate.
Make sure the washer is empty and has no clothes or objects inside before starting calibration.
Put the washer into its diagnostic mode using the procedure for your model.
Rotate the dial four turns clockwise, then press Start to begin recalibration.
Wait two to three minutes for recalibration to complete, and watch for the lights to turn off when it finishes.
Run a load after recalibration, and wait for thread locker to fully dry if you used it on the wash plate bolt.

If the washer still shakes after leveling, suspension checks, hub repairs, and recalibration, recheck the inner tub for play against the outer tub and confirm the top panel is locked in place and the cabinet can’t be rocked by hand. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot a Shaking or Bouncing Maytag Washing Machine» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →