How to Troubleshoot a Samsung Washing Machine Not Draining

SamsungSamsung Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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If your Samsung front-load washing machine won't drain, won't spin, or shows drainage-related error codes such as ND, 5E, SE, 5C, SC, or 15C, start with the hose, standpipe, and pump checks before blaming the control board. This guide walks through the drainage checks, drain-pump access, pump testing, and the separate SUD-code cleanup path shown in the video.

🧰 Tools

Phillips Screwdriver
6-in-1 Screwdriver
Bucket
Shop Towels or Rags
Water Bottle
Drill driver
Multimeter
Smart Wrench
High strength cable ties
Door Boot Spring Tool

⚙️ Parts

Drain pump motor
Control board PCB

ШагиSteps

Confirm the issue is a drain problem

Look for drain-related error codes such as ND, 5E, SE, 5C, SC, or 1 5C when the washer won’t run, spin, or drain.
Troubleshoot the drainage components one by one, starting with the hose and standpipe setup.

Check the drain hose and standpipe setup

Pull the drain hose out of the standpipe and measure how far it goes into the standpipe.
Set the hose so it doesn’t extend more than 7 inches (18 cm) into the standpipe.
Adjust the standpipe height so it isn’t lower than where the drain hose exits the washer.
Keep the standpipe level with, or slightly taller than, the hose outlet on the washer to prevent gravity draining and errors.

Open the front drain access panel

Press in and remove the front drain access panel on the washer.
Locate the small black emergency drain hose and the white pump filter cap behind the panel.

Drain the tub with the emergency hose

Place the end of the small black drain hose into a plastic bottle and drain water from the tub.
Empty the bottle into a large bucket and repeat until no more water comes out.
Put a towel under the filter area before opening the filter cap in case extra water spills out.

Clean the pump filter catch out

Unscrew the white pump filter cap and expect a little more water to drain out.
Remove debris from the filter catch-out, such as pet hair, that can stop the washer from pumping properly.
Clean the filter catch-out every four to six months if the washer has this filter setup.
Run the washer again after cleaning, because cleaning the filter often solves the problem.
Plan to test or replace the drain pump motor if the washer still won’t drain after removing a lot of junk.

Decide how you’ll access the drain pump

Check for an access hole underneath the washer that lets you reach the drain pump without removing the front panel.
Unhooking the rubber drain hose and removing two front screws can let you pull the drain pump from below on some units.
Use proper bracing if you attempt underside access.
Don’t attempt underside access unless you’re comfortable with a 200-pound washer being directly above you.
Remove the front panel instead if you want the less risky option.

Remove the top panel and detergent drawer

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws from the rear of the top lid.
Remove the top panel.
Press the button on the detergent dispenser and pull the dispenser fully out.
Remove any screws that hold the dispenser housing in place if your model has them.

Remove the control console

Open the door and use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws from the door latch area.
Roll the console toward the front and pull up to snap it out of place.
Rest the console on top of the washer without unplugging anything.

Free the door boot and remove front panel screws

Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the door retention spring around the rubber gasket.
Pull the rubber seal away from the lip of the door opening.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws at the top of the front panel near the door opening.
Remove the three screws underneath the front panel if your model has them, which may require tilting the washer rearward.

Remove the front panel

Press down the two metal retaining fingers at the top of the front panel while pulling the top edge forward to release it.
Pull the front panel outward and lift it up to remove it from the washer.

Check the pump hoses and remove the pump

Inspect the rubber hoses attached to the drain pump for clogs or obstructions.
Check the hose path from the drain pump to the standpipe for blockages that would stop water from reaching the standpipe.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the drain pump in place.
Push the pump rearward to free any remaining hoses, then remove the pump from the washer.

Test the drain pump motor and impeller

Identify whether your pump assembly includes more than one pump, because some housings include a recirculation pump and a drain pump.
Remove only the drain pump motor instead of the entire housing if your model allows it.
Use a drill or a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the motor to the pump housing.
Spin the impeller by hand and feel for strong magnetic resistance that “catches” as it turns.
Replace the drain pump motor if the impeller feels sloppy or loose with little magnetic catch.

Install the replacement drain pump motor

Install the replacement pump motor onto the existing housing so you replace only the failed part.
Reinstall the three screws that secure the motor to the housing.
Reinstall the pump in the washer and reconnect any hoses that were removed.
Reinstall the two screws that hold the pump assembly in place.

Reinstall the front panel and door boot

Set the front panel onto the small fingers at the bottom of the washer and pivot the top edge into place.
Position the door latch so it’s close to its square opening before snapping the front panel fully in place.
Reach behind the rubber gasket, place the door latch into the square opening, and reinstall the two Phillips screws to secure it.
Work the rubber gasket back onto the metal lip around the opening.
Be careful, because the metal lip is a little sharp.
Reinstall the metal door boot spring around the gasket.
Use a wrench and high-strength cable ties to stretch the spring if the eyelets are too small for a door boot spring tool.

Reassemble the cabinet and console

Reinstall the three bottom screws and the four top screws that secure the front panel to the chassis.
Fit the console into the four small mounting holes on the front and snap it into place.
Align the soap dispenser area with the console if it doesn’t want to snap into place, and maneuver it until it fits.
Reinstall the four screws on the top of the console.
Test the washer operation before reinstalling the top lid.

Check the PCB and ohm test the pump circuit

Inspect the drain pump wiring connections and routing if the washer still doesn’t drain after the pump work.
Remove the screws on the rear that hold the PCB assembly in place, noting your model may use a different number of screws.
Remove the two screws on top holding the crossbar so the board can be moved out for testing.
Push the board to the side and remove it, removing the small ethernet cable on the rear if your washer has one.
Release the five or six tabs on the PCB cover, using a flathead screwdriver if needed, and remove the cover.
Use the model schematic to identify the drain pump wire test points on the PCB, because routing varies by model.
Use a multimeter in ohms mode and check for continuity down to the drain pump, because OL suggests an open line from a loose or frayed wire.
Check for a pump resistance reading between 10 ohms and 60 ohms to confirm the drain pump coil is typically in good working order.

Voltage test the drain pump and evaluate the PCB

Voltage test the drain pump by turning the washer on, running a cycle, and measuring voltage at the pump with a multimeter while it’s running.
Expect to see 120 volts from the PCB down to the drain pump during the drain portion of a cycle.
Treat this as a live-voltage test, because it involves measuring 120 volts while the washer is powered on.
Replace the PCB if you get no voltage to the drain pump, which suggests the PCB relays aren’t working properly.

Clear the SUD code caused by too many suds

Recognize the SUD code as being caused by too many soap suds in the washer.
Add about a half cup of fabric softener to the dispenser.
Slowly pour a half gallon of water into the dispenser tray so it mixes with the softener and flows into the washer.
Wait five to 15 minutes for the fabric softener to break down the suds.
Run the washer as normal after the suds dissipate.
Use less detergent and use the correct detergent, because high-efficiency washers require high-efficiency detergent that doesn’t create suds.

Reassemble the washer fully and run a drain cycle to confirm water exits normally before returning it to service. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot a Samsung Washing Machine Not Draining» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →