Samsung Console Top Dryer Heating Element Replacement

SamsungSamsung dryerModerate⏱ 2 - 3 hours

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If a Samsung dryer runs but won’t heat, a failed heating element or another safety component in the heater circuit is a common cause. This guide shows how to open the dryer, test the heating element and related sensors with a multimeter, replace the heating element, and reassemble the machine. Similar LG and Kenmore dryers may come apart in a comparable way, but always verify the exact procedure and parts for your model.

🧰 Tools

6-in-1 Screwdriver
Putty Knife
Multimeter
Needle Nose Pliers
Camera or phone

⚙️ Parts

Heating Element
Thermal cutoff
High-limit thermostat
Thermal fuse
Thermistor

ШагиSteps

Disconnect power

Unplug the dryer from the wall or switch off the breaker before opening the cabinet.

Release the top panel

Slide a putty knife under the front edge of the top panel and press the two locking tabs to pop the lid open.
Some dryers have stiff clips or too little clearance for this method.
If you cannot release the top from the front, use the rear-screw method in the next step.

Open the top from the rear screws

Use a screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the top panel from the back of the dryer.
Push the top panel forward and lift it up.
Reinstall the two screws so the lid can lean back against the dryer without falling off.
If the lid falls, it can hang by the main-board wires and damage them.

Remove the door assembly

Use a screwdriver to remove the seven screws securing the door area to the dryer.
Remove four screws along the top under the open lid, two screws at the lint filter, and one screw near the door switch.
Depress the two metal retention tabs, and pull the door outward while lifting slowly to avoid damaging the wiring.
Set the door on top of the dryer to make it easier to disconnect the door switch wire harness.

Remove the bulkhead and blower cover

Use a screwdriver to remove the six bulkhead screws.
Remove four screws on the bulkhead and two screws on the dryer vent housing at the bottom.
Disconnect and remove the moisture sensor near the heating element in the lower right corner of the dryer.
Lift the bulkhead up to release it from its tabs, and remove the bulkhead and blower cover.

Remove the drum

Reach into the cabinet and unhook the idler pulley from the belt.
Use the belt to lift the drum up, then pull the drum forward and out of the cabinet.
The cabinet has cutouts on each side that let the drum come out quickly.

Clean lint and document wiring

Clean out lint inside the dryer before servicing the heating system.
Inspect the heating element for visible damage.
Take a photo of the heating system wiring so you can match the connections during reassembly.

Test the heating element with a multimeter

Remove a single wire connector from the heating element to prevent false readings during testing.
Use a flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to remove stubborn connectors without damaging the spade terminals.
Set a multimeter to continuity or resistance mode, and probe both heating element spade terminals at the same time.
Replace the heating element if it doesn’t show continuity or it isn’t about 10 ohms.
Check for a grounded element by probing one spade terminal and the metal canister, and replace the element immediately if you get continuity.

Test the high-limit thermostat and thermal cutoff

Remove a single wire connector from the high-limit thermostat or thermal cutoff before testing it.
Use a multimeter continuity test, and replace the part if the meter does not show continuity.
Replace both the thermal cutoff and the thermostat if the thermal cutoff has failed.
A thermostat that overheats the circuit can contribute to thermal-cutoff failure.

Test the thermal fuse and thermistor

Locate the thermistor and thermal fuse behind the blower housing, beside the motor and idler pulley.
Remove a wire connector from each part, and remove each sensor if needed, since the video says they’re held in by a single screw on this unit.
Test the thermal fuse with continuity or resistance, and replace it if the meter shows an open line with no value.
Test the black thermistor in resistance mode, and expect about 12 kΩ at 70 °F (21 °C).
Replace the thermistor if it reads outside roughly 10 kΩ to 14 kΩ at room temperature.

Remove the heater canister

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the heater housing in place.
Remove the screw at the top of the canister and the screw at the front of the canister.
Remove the sensors from the heater canister, or leave the wiring connected and remove the thermostat and thermal cutoff screws instead.

Remove the old heating element

Remove approximately eight screws around the heater canister to open it and expose the heating element.
Use needle-nose pliers to flatten the tiny metal retaining tabs on both heating element terminals.
Pull the element terminals free, and lift the heating element out of the canister and ceramic housing.

Install the new heating element

Set the new heating element into the canister and thread the element terminals onto the ceramic block posts.
Install the element wires in the same orientation as the original so they return to the correct ceramic block posts.
Crimp the terminal retaining tabs carefully until the element is locked in place.
Reassemble the canister and reinstall the canister screws, bending the thin metal slightly if needed to align the screw holes.

Reinstall the heater canister and reconnect wiring

Position the heater canister back in the dryer the same way it came out, and reinstall the two mounting screws.
Reinstall the thermostat and thermal cutoff using their screws, and reinstall any other heater canister sensors.
Reconnect all wiring to match the photo you took before disassembly.

Reinstall the drum and belt

Lower the drum into the cabinet using the belt as a handle, and seat the drum on the rear bulkhead.
Thread the belt back onto the motor, and route it around the idler pulley to apply tension.
Rotate the drum by hand to confirm the belt is routed correctly and the blower moves as the drum turns.

Reinstall the bulkhead

Fit the bulkhead back into place, making sure the bulkhead tabs seat correctly before installing screws.
The cabinet can shift slightly, so adjust the bulkhead until the tabs seat correctly.
Reconnect the moisture sensor harness while reinstalling the bulkhead.
Reinstall the six bulkhead screws, including the two screws at the vent housing.

Reinstall the door and top panel

Reconnect the door switch wire harness before fully installing the door.
Set the bottom of the door onto the metal hinges, and position the metal retention clips.
Reinstall the seven door screws in their original locations.
Lower the top panel, and make sure it seats on the plastic posts so it locks into place.

Test the dryer and continue diagnosis if needed

Restore power and run a heat cycle to confirm the dryer heats normally.
Check every electrical connection in the dryer if it still won’t heat after replacing parts and matching the wiring.
Live-voltage control-board testing should be left to a qualified technician if you need to continue electrical diagnosis.
Consider other causes mentioned in the video, including a failing motor centrifugal switch, a bad motor, or a severed wire.

If the dryer still won’t heat after you verify the replacement part and reconnect the wiring, continue diagnosing the rest of the heating circuit before replacing more parts. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«Samsung Console Top Dryer Heating Element Replacement» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →