Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cutoff Switch Replacement

WhirlpoolWhirlpool DryerModerate⏱ 3 - 4 hours

Инструкция на английском (оригинал iFixit). Непонятные термины — в разделе «Основы → Словарь».

Use this guide to test the thermal cutoff switch on your Whirlpool Dryer and replace it if necessary. The thermal cutoff switch is one of the last lines of defense to keep your machine from overheating. When it triggers, it disconnects the heating element, but the dryer will still turn on. If it's broken or malfunctioning, the dryer may overheat. The repair is rated difficult for the number of steps and the amount of dismantling needed, including some difficult steps when removing the front lower bulkhead. This guide will work for most Whirlpool dryers. This guide is written with a model WED87HED dryer. If you have a different model, you may encounter some minor disassembly differences, but the overall repair process will be the same.

Сначала выполнить:Do these first:

Whirlpool Dryer Power Cord Replacement

🧰 Tools

5/16" Nut Driver
Phillips #2 Screwdriver
6-in-1 Screwdriver
5/16" Socket
Socket Wrench
FixMat
1/4" Nut Driver
3/16 Flat Head Screwdriver
Spudger

ШагиSteps

Safety Precautions

Before you begin your repair, unplug your dryer.
Your power cord may have four prongs rather than three. The additional prong is a ground connection.

Unfasten the top panel

Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.
Use a nut driver to remove the screws securing the top panel to the rear panel bracket.

Remove the top panel

Grasp the top and slide it 1/2 to 1 inch toward the rear of the machine.

Step 4

Lift the top panel upward to separate it from the chassis.
Remove the top panel from the machine.

Disconnect the control panel

Disconnect the control panel cable from the main board.

Step 6

Disconnect the drum light connector.

Unfasten the control panel

Remove the screws securing the control panel.

Remove the control panel

Lift the control panel up and tilt it away from the chassis to remove it.
Make sure to thread the cable through the hole in the chassis.
During reassembly, thread the cable through its proper hole before reinstalling the control panel.

Disconnect the door switch

Use a small flat blade screwdriver or a spudger to unlatch both sides of the door switch connector.
Unplug the connector.

Unfasten the front panel

Remove the upper front panel sheet metal screws.
Tilt the machine backwards and prop it securely, or have a friend hold it.
Remove the sheet metal screws on the bottom edge of the panel.

Step 11

Remove the screws inside the door area below the drum opening.

Remove the front panel

The panel is heavy and awkward. You may want to have a friend help you with this step.
Pull the bottom of the panel away from the chassis about two to three inches.
Lift the front panel off the small tabs on the chassis near the top of the panel and remove it.
Make sure you don't snag the door switch wire harness as you remove the panel.

Unfasten the cover plate

Remove the cover plate screw.

Remove the cover plate

Remove the cover plate.

Disconnect the cord

Remove the screws securing the cord cables.
Mark the cables with a permanent marker if needed and take a picture or draw a diagram.

Remove the cord

Pull the cord carefully down through the round hole.
Make sure you replace the connections correctly when you reassemble.

Unfasten the cord terminal block

Remove the green ground screw.
Remove the cord terminal block screws.

Move the cord terminal block

Move the cord terminal block behind the rear panel.

Unfasten the rear panel

Remove the rear panel screws.
Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

Step 20

Remove the screw holding the main board bracket to the chassis.
Remove the screws from the top rear of the machine.

Remove the rear panel

Put on gloves before continuing, as the rear panel is sharp.
Lift the panel about 1/2 inch and tilt it to the rear to release it from the vent pipe.
Slide the panel off the vent pipe and remove it.

Reassembly information

During reassembly, perform the following:
Make sure that the vent pipe is fitted into the collar on the panel.
Make sure the tabs at the bottom are aligned to the bottom rim of the chassis.
Position the panel so its screw holes match with the chassis.

Remove the lint filter

Pull the lint filter up out of the lint filter slot to remove it.
These photos show the front panel in place, but the procedure is the same if the front panel is already removed.

Unfasten the lint filter housing

Remove the mounting screws securing the lint filter housing.

Remove the lint filter housing

Pull the filter housing outward from the chassis and down to remove it.

Disconnect the moisture sensor

Squeeze the locking tabs on the moisture sensor connector.
Disconnect the connector.

Disconnect the main board

Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.
Disconnect all of the connectors on the main board front half.

Step 28

Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.
Disconnect all the connectors from the rear half of the main board.

Unfasten the main board from the main board bracket

Remove the sheet metal screw that retains the main board to the main board bracket.

Separate the main board from the main board bracket

Lift the rear corner of the main board nearest to the side walls of the chassis.
You want to release the locking tab on the side of the main board.
Slide the main board toward the front of the dryer to release the tabs securing it to the main board bracket.

Remove the main board

Remove the main board from the main board bracket.

Remove the main board bracket

Remove the sheet metal screw holding the main board bracket.

Remove the wiring harness from the main board bracket

Lift off the main board bracket from the chassis and turn it so the bottom is exposed.
Using long nose or slip joint pliers, pinch the locking wings of the harness retainer clamp.
Separate the harness from the main board bracket and remove the main board bracket.

Unfasten the upper front bulkhead

Remove the screws securing the upper front bulkhead to the front of the chassis.
Remove the sheet metal screws securing the top plastic portion to the upper front bulkhead.

Remove the upper front bulkhead

Remove the upper front bulkhead and set it aside.

Release the belt tension

Take careful note of the belt path before proceeding.
Be careful during this procedure! The idler arm is under spring tension and may pinch you, or it could damage the belt switch if the arm is allowed to snap down.
Push the idler arm (the metal upside-down "L") up to relieve the tension on the drive belt.
Remove the belt from the motor pulley.
Gently lower the idler arm until it rests parallel to the dryer floor.
During reassembly, refer to your notes or the belt path link to rethread the drive belt.

Unfasten the lower front bulkhead

Remove the screws securing the lower front bulkhead.

Remove the lower front bulkhead

While supporting the drum, lift the lower front bulkhead off of the hooks on the chassis.

Step 39

Lower the bulkhead about 2 inches to free the drum rollers tucked under the drum.
While supporting the drum, remove the lower front bulkhead.
During reassembly, tilt the bulkhead to the right to get the rollers under the lip on the front of the drum. Once the drum is on the rollers, you can move the bulkhead to the upright position.

Remove the drum

Use the belt to lift the drum a few inches.
Swing the drum out of the front of the dryer.
Note which end of the drum faces the front.
If the belt is broken, stand in front of the drum and put your arms inside it. Lift it up and pull it through the front opening of the machine. Having someone to help you with this is a good idea.
Make sure you get your drum back on the rollers when you reinstall the lower front bulkhead. Take your time and don't force it.

Thermal cutoff switch information

The following steps show how to test and replace the thermal cutoff switch.

Disconnect the thermal cutoff switch

Pull the two thermal cutoff switch spade connectors straight out of their slots to disconnect them
Make sure to grasp the connectors and not the wires when disconnecting.

Test the thermal cutoff switch

If you do not need to test the thermal cutoff switch, skip this step.
This step will require a multimeter. If you aren't familiar with how to use one, here is a guide that will help you.
With the thermal cutoff switch disconnected, you can check it for continuity. It should show continuity (less than 1 Ω) at room temperature.
If it shows OL or anything above 1 Ω, replace it.

Unfasten the thermal cutoff switch

Remove the sheet metal screws securing the thermal cutoff switch.

Remove the thermal cutoff switch

Note the orientation of the part as it may be meant to be installed in one direction.
Remove the part by lifting it off of the heater housing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Repair didn’t go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cutoff Switch Replacement» — автор Bill Gilbert, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →